Rating: B


Every couple years or so, Bell’s comes out with a commemorative beer to mark another 1,000 batches under their belt. Similar to Batch 7000 that was released back in 2005, which I’ve heard from various folks is drinking REALLY well at the moment, their recently released Batch 9000 is a massive imperial stout coming in at 12.5% ABV.   

Poured into a snifter with a deep brown coloring and a thin head that builds with time. Aroma is soy sauce, anise, dark fruits, and mild alcohol. Maybe even a DFH 120 kind of rich caramel quality going on. Taste is very sweet, borderline cloying, more than just about any imperial stout I’ve ever tried. Bittersweet in the middle, likely from the molasses they brew with, with a fair amount of alcohol heat in the finish. Mouthfeel is relatively thin for the style, I need some viscosity here, not what I’d expect for such a huge beer.

Overall impression? I felt blitzed halfway through the snifter, and overwhelmed by sweet malt, which given my predilection for other sweet imperial stouts like Darkness 2008 was surprising to me. But this beer really needs to lay down for a year or two and mellow out before it gets pleasantly drinkable, which is exactly what I’m doing with the rest of my bottles.

Rating: B

Where I Bought It: Zipp’s Liquors
Availability: Limited Release
Price: $16.99 per six pack

First home brew review in quite a long time.

I brewed this berliner weisse back in early November, opting for a pretty straightforward grain bill of half pils and half wheat, an ounce of Tettnanger in the mash and a no-boil approach to minimize hop utilization (and thus hindering of bacteria development). I pitched lactobacillus delbrueckii up front, waited a day and pitched the brewer’s yeast. Primary went just fine, secondary was good, and I dosed with another shot of lactobacillus when I bottled several weeks later. Here’s the original recipe for anyone interested.  

So how’d my first attempt at a sour turn out?

Poured a very pale straw coloring, like weak lemonade. Copious carbonation and loads of spritz, like a champagne. Aroma is boldly lactic and sour, very nice and promising. Taste is immediately sour, but mildly so. Not as puckering as I would have hoped, which I attribute to lack of sugar in primary for the lactobacillus to consume (pitching the lacto 24 hours ahead of the yeast may not have been enough time, but I was concerned with pH levels). Soft wheat flavoring that leads to a smooth finish. The 2.5% ABV is obviously not a factor here. Mouthfeel is medium, with the sour and carb providing a nice prickly sensation.

Overall, not bad for my first attempt at the style (I know I did something right, because my wife who despises sour ales hates it), but not what I’d call a home run. Definitely very refreshing and I can see myself drinking lots of this on the patio this summer. I may experiment with a sour mash next time I brew this.

Rating: B

The reason I knew this year’s batch of Bell’s fabled Hopslam was on its way to the local market wasn’t because I received a press release from the brewery, nor did I see “Coming Soon!” signs in my favorite liquor stores. Rather, I’ve been getting scads of search engine hits from waist-watching beer lovers wondering “how many calories are in Hopslam?”

A strange thing, if you ask me. When it comes to craft beer, people’s fascination with calories is a bit funny, like walking into The Olive Garden and asking for the low-carb menu. On the macro front, marketers in the U.S. have honed in on it as a point of differentiation for years, humorously beating each other up on the air waves to see who can produce the most metabolically inoffensive product possible. 

However, most people interested in flavorful, artisanal food selections probably wouldn’t dictate the bulk of their dining choices in that way. Similarly, there’s a reason Michelob Ultra exists…and it ain’t for people like me.  

But to address the apparently highly sought-after answer on Hopslam’s caloric content…I don’t know definitively*. However, based on this site, I’d safely put it in the 275 to 300 calorie neighborhood per 12 ounce bottle. Which compared to Bud Light’s paltry 95 calories, or even Guinness Draught – everyone’s oft-cited “meal in a can” – at only 125 calories, Hopslam certainly takes things to another level, and not just in its nutritional value.

Poured with a nice head of carbonation, rich amber coloring with great clarity.

Aroma is citrus and pine resin, maybe some flower like lavender and a hint of clove possibly from the honey they use in the brewing process, and a fair amount of alcohol.

Flavor is impressively bitter from start to finish, as expected with the style, but not enough malt sweetness to follow it up and balance things, at least for me. A little one dimensional from that perspective, with the alcohol cutting in to take a disproportionate amount of the spotlight. Very hot. I juxtapose this to beers like Dogfish Head 90 Minute, which masterfully finds a way to showcase the hops and malt in their own place. 

Mouthfeel is good, nice carbonation and a prickly, warming sensation from the hop/alcohol combo. The honey probably contributes to the somewhat dry finish and helps kick this beer up to the 10% ABV level. 

Doing my best to wipe away the palpable hype that drips from the bottle, and daring the ire of beer geeks far and wide, I recognize and enjoy the beer for what it is, a really aromatic and somewhat unbalanced double IPA. Truth in advertising, I suppose. Try it if you can, but I’m not a gushing fan.

Rating: B

Where I Bought It: The Cellars in Plymouth
Availability: Seasonal – available through February
Price: $15.49 a six pack

* Brewery representative Jason Gillum confirmed that Hopslam comes in at 280 calories per 12 ounce bottle.

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My time this afternoon tippling a few at Stub & Herb’s, just a stone’s throw from the gleaming new Gopher football stadium on the U of M campus, greatly reinforced my perception that the place is one of the best craft beer bars in the Twin Cities.

DSC02871The saloon was nearly empty when we arrived around noon, save for a few souls in a quiet booth in the back that, unlike most of the state’s populous, didn’t have the Fair on their minds.

Amazing that a college bar — stereotypically filled with macro swill, plastic cups and crates of Red Bull — has such a fantastic draught list, including nearly every Surly offering (Hell and 16 Grit just recently ran out before I got there!), a number of other locals like Lift Bridge, Flat Earth, Summit and Schells, and a dozen other notables from across the country. And it’s not just the stuff on tap…the staff are actually friendly and, get this, knowledgeable about what they’re pouring, a seemingly tall order in most bars around the city. Our bartender Benji offered some nice recommendations, including our lunch fare which included a Surly Bender French Dip, a great sandwich made with beef roasted in the oatmeal brown ale.

I tried a number of beers while we were there, most really hitting the mark.

Great Divide Hercules Double IPA
Probably not a great idea to start my afternoon off with a 9% ABV double IPA, but what the heck, it’s Sunday. A very aromatic IPA, but more on the dank side of the hop spectrum than protoypical, bright West Coast-style DIPA’s like, say, Pliny the Elder. Very bitter taste even for the style, almost a little too much for me. But fairly smooth throughout considering how boozey it is.   

Rating: B+

Lift Bridge Minnesota Tan
I’ve enjoyed nearly everything I’ve tried from Stillwater-based Lift Bridge, including their flagship Farm Girl Saison (I’m actually sipping a snifter as I write this), and their Minnesota Tan, a Belgian triple, was no different. Kind of nice to see a local brewery leading with a couple Belgian styles, but this one has certainly veered from the “traditional” path with an interesting pinkish coloring thanks to the lingonberries they brew with. A bit yeasty in the nose, a bit tart in the taste, leading to a nice sweet finish. Very enjoyable. And at 8.5% ABV, another one that’ll sneak up on you if you allow it.   

Rating A-

Flat Earth Sunburst Apricot Belgian Pale Ale
This is another pretty solid local offering. A light and refreshing aroma of apricot up front, fairly unique (although I think Town Hall has done an apricot wheat before). Taste is relatively similar to their regular Belgian Pale Ale, which is what I’m assuming is the base beer…more of the light tartness from the apricot coupled by some malty sweetness, leading to a dryness in the finish. 

Rating: B

Lagunitas Lil’ Sumpin Sumpin
Wow…this is everything I’ve heard about this beer and then some. It’s classified as an American pale wheat ale, but it screams IPA to me. Actually, very reminiscent in the aroma to Surly Furious, likely some combination of Warrior, Amarillo and Simcoe hops. Also got a little bit of citrus in there, grapefruit or lemon. Taste was not really what I’d expect for a wheat beer…far too much of a sweet and malty backbone, which did help balance the bitterness. You also get some of the honey they apparently use while brewing. Our bartender informed us that when this ran out, they were tapping Lagunitas’ Lil’ Sumpin Extra, a double IPA, which I can only assume builds on the success of this beer. 

Rating: A

Sierra Nevada Tripel
Never had this one before, and was frankly a bit surprised to learn Sierra Nevada has delved into the Belgian brewing tradition (to my knowledge, they’ve done a saison before, but that’s about it). Certainly reminiscent of a nice tripel like Chimay Cinq Cents, but kind of a Chimay “light” quality to it. Some American hops in the nose as well as yeast and clove, but overall a much lighter, more airy characteristic to the aroma (sort of how New Belgium is to Belgian beers). Taste is sweet and alcoholic, a bit dry in the finish. I guess I understand why they haven’t done more Belgians in the past.      

Rating: C+

Dark Horse Too Cream Stout
Ah, Dark Horse…one of my favorite breweries out of the Midwest. This is the last of their holiday stout series that I’ve tried, which also includes One Oatmeal Stout, Tres Blueberry Stout, Fore Smoked Stout and Plead the Fifth Imperial Stout. Loads of deep roasted malt notes in the aroma, along with milk chocolate. Tons of distinctive dark bitterness in the taste, presumably from the black patent malt I’m assuming they use in the grain bill, but expertly balanced by lactose to give it a silky smooth mouthfeel and wonderful overall impression. Probably the best beer I tried all day.

Rating: A

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Dark Horse Too Cream Stout

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Surly mural on the Stub's patio

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Soon-to-be-filled TCF Bank Stadium

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Downtown St. Paul is a quaint little area, a mix of the historic and new. Modern business towers mingle with 1930′s gangster-era theaters. Cobblestone streets lead to corporate coffee shops dotting several street corners. And the tattered remnants of Lowertown warehouses from yesteryear overlook sparkling condominiums on the Mississippi riverfront.

If you’re not careful, you might actually fool yourself into thinking you’re in a thriving city filled with adventure and things to do. But when 5:01 p.m. hits on any given weekday, that thought quickly evaporates as the place becomes a virtual ghost town. Throngs of white starched shirts and pressed business suits filter out of corporate monoliths to make their way to the burbs. Homeless people roll through Rice Park like tumbleweed. And bartenders at watering holes quietly work their way through the day’s Pioneer Press crossword puzzle, waiting for someone…anyone…to give them something to do.    

The scene at Great Waters Brewery on St. Peter Street was thankfully a little more lively than that when I showed up Wednesday evening, but not by much. It’s been a while since I’ve been there, and was glad to see a slew of interesting beers on draught. I sampled a few, all of which were mighty tasty:

Cask Rye Pale Ale Dry Hopped with Chinook
Of the eight or 10 beers on tap, about half were cask-conditioned, which I think is great not only for the beer geeks interested in supporting real ale, but also a fun way for your everyday beer drinker to learn more about the difference in unfiltered and unpasteurized ale pushed naturally from the cask. Their Rye Pale Ale dry hopped with Chinook was a great example, poured surprisingly clear with a nice medium amber hue and beautiful combo of the bready rye and pungent aromatic hops in the nose. Taste was not as malty as I expected, but rather a bit dry leading to a spicy finish thanks to the rye. A very enjoyable beer.

Rating: A-

KaizerWeizen Hefeweizen
Poured golden cloudy with yeast like a good hefe should. Really no head to speak of, but that’s likely more a function that it was served in one of their half-pint glasses. Faint banana and bubble gum aroma, leading to a fairly non-descript flavor of light grain. Fairly spritzy mouthfeel. While this was a very clean, obviously well-constructed beer, it only reinforced my general disdain for hefeweizens as a relatively mundane style (unless you’re talking about Weihenstephaner, in which case pour me another!).

Rating: B

Cask Oak-Aged Black Watch Oatmeal Stout
Another cask-conditioned ale in the form of an oatmeal stout. Very deep brown pour, with a really subtle oakiness in the aroma. And in fact, too subtle in my opinion. The bartender told me they age it in oak casks for about a month, which to me doesn’t sound like enough to really impart that unique barrel characteristic. Some nice chocolate and roasted notes in the nose as well. Taste was smooth, almost velvety from the oatmeal. But compared to other stouts, I’d say a bit light in the mouthfeel department. A solid beer overall.

Rating: B

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Let’s just get this out of the way right up front. The Duchesse is the most wonderfully foul, rank, and abhorrent beer I’ve ever had. Just don’t ask me to try it again.

It’s a Flanders Red, which stylistically means you better get ready for a puckering experience worse than the last time you told your boss they looked good in that searsucker suit. Brewed with lactobacillus, these beers emit a piercing and intensely tart, sour characteristic. It’s essentially lactic acid in a bomber. Despite their attempts to blend younger and older versions of the beer to help balance some of this out, you’re still in for a shock.   

Poured with an appealing reddish coloring, fairly clear, but with a bit of yeast sediment. Pretty big, yeasty head. Smelled like a dank bath rag that’s been sitting in the corner of your tub for a week. Spoiled and sour, a moldy rancidness. However, you have to understand, stylistically that’s not a knock because that’s exactly what they’re going for. But from a personal preference perspective? Meh. They age the beer in an oak-barrel for a year, but you don’t really get any of that in the nose. The sourness dominates. You do, however, pick up a somewhat perceptible aroma of anise.

Taste is very sweet right up front, some kind of darker fruit, maybe prunes. But it quickly fades into more of the biting sourness. In fact, the beer is intensely prickly. It climbed up the back of my throat and invaded my nasal membranes. I almost choked up a few times, it was all-encompassing. My eyes watered.

You’d think at this point that I’d put the snifter down and move on to another beer. But no, I don’t give up that easily. For this is the highest rated Flanders Red on Beer Advocate, and by god, I was going to savor it.

They call this beer “The Burgundies of Belgium” on the label, and I think it’s aptly named as this beer is probably more similar to wine than it is to your standard ale. Stylistically, I realize this is one of those benchmark beers, and that’s weighing heavily into my rating. I mean for chrissake, it won the Gold Medal at the World Beer Cup. But I only appreciated it from an R&D standpoint…it’s definitely not a beer (or style) I could drink even occasionally.

Rating: B

DSC02238I know Tomme Arthur, brewmaster at Lost Abbey, has gotten knocked around the blogosphere a fair amount for what many in the beer community see as a lapse in quality and customer care related to the release of their 2008 Brandy Barrel-Aged Angel’s Share that apparently lacked sufficient carbonation. More on that saga here.

I don’t really have a horse in this race, as I wasn’t one of the folks that signed up to be part of the “Patron Saints and Sinners Club,” because frankly $235 plus shipping costs for what amounted to six bombers of beer (two 375 ml bottles every other month, to be exact) seemed a tad steep for my blood. But I can see both sides of the coin on this issue…from a customer’s perspective, when you pay about $40 for the equivalent of a bomber, there’s a reasonable expectation that everything about that bottle better be in pristine condition, even down to the wiring on the cork cage. On the otherhand, reading Tomme’s explanation, I absolutely understand the pressures that must be associated with getting product out the door in a timely manner to meet customer demand. Because as a homebrewer, I know firsthand that variables involved in bottle conditioning (yeast population, available fermentables, temperature) can greatly impact the speed in which the beer inside is ready to be properly served. Sometimes you get a batch that carbonates in a week, and sometimes it takes a month. Sometimes it’s even overcarbonated. It can be a crap shoot, which is why I generally prefer kegging. But I think what some people might forget, as much as they have a reasonable expectation to getting what they pay for, is that beer — and more specifically HIGH QUALITY craft beer — is a living and breathing organism. And consequently, there is a possibility for variation in product, especially in small handcrafted batches as Lost Abbey was dealing with. I’d expect these bottles in question would have eventually carbonated just fine, given some time in the cellar. But if some of these folks are like me, patience is in short supply, especially when you have a fantastic beer package sitting on your doorstep.   

In the end, I think the Angel’s Share thing was an unfortunate incident that probably put a small black eye on what is otherwise, at least in my opinion, a high quality brewery. Their reputation will surely recover.

Thankfully, none of these issues presented themselves when I popped a bottle of their Carnevale, a saison-style ale that uses a healthy dose of brettanomyces to set it apart from many others in its category. I don’t know what it is, but I am completely enamored with wild yeast, I just love it.

Poured a hazy golden color, with a nice foamy head. Very cloudy with yeast, and a definite funky aroma from the brett. A bit spicy and some citrus notes, but it’s largely overshadowed by the musty yeast. The flavor was OK, some sweet maltiness, but not as crisp, clean and effervescent as I tend to prefer in saisons. It seemed kind of “muddy.” I suppose some of this could be from the brett’s overall dominance. Mouthfeel was good, full and smooth. 

A unique saison. But a little one-dimensional, even for a guy that really enjoys brett.

Rating: B

If you haven’t been over to Kramarczuk’s in Northeast Minneapolis, I recommend you go as quickly as you can.

It’s a fantastic little neighborhood sausage maker, bakery and restaurant all wrapped into one. They’ve been making some of the best sausages this side of the Mississippi since 1954, and have truly made a name for themselves as a Minneapolis landmark. This last weekend, several of us got together for a little spring cook-out, and my friend tossed Kramarczuk’s andouille and curried brats on the grill. It was seriously some of the best stuff I’ve ever had. And paired with two incredible IPA’s and a nice imperial stout,  you couldn’t really ask for a better evening. Here’s the rundown on the beers:

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Houblon Chouffe Dobbelen IPA Tripel

This is a fantastic and unique blend of a Belgian IPA/Tripel from Brasserie d’Achouffe. Pours with a big yeasty head, with all kinds of champagne-like carbonation escaping from the beautiful lemonade colored beer below. The hops are certainly there in the nose, but the yeast also plays a nice role, kind of like each knows their place in the symphony. Some apple and pear notes come through as well.

Taste is magnificent. Unlike the nose, which trends more to the IPA side, you get more of the sweet malty tripel effect combined with some of the yeast and alcohol. A spicy finish that keeps you coming back for more. Really one of the more complex and well-balanced beers I’ve had in a long time. I’m hoping Alvey at the Four Firkins still has some of this in stock.   

Rating: A 

dsc01883Southern Tier Oak-Aged Unearthly Imperial IPA

As if Houblon Chouffe didn’t impress me, along comes Southern Tier with its enormously complex Oak-Aged Unearthly Imperial IPA.

My wine conoisseur friend, who has one of the more finely tuned palates I know of, couldn’t get over how well the oakiness came through like a fine wine. Not too much, but perfectly balanced with the combination of piney hops and caramel malt.

Pours with a great amber coloring, not a big head but you still get a great nose of the oak and hops. Taste is extraordinary, just so much going on. At once you get the big malt backbone, some caramel, maybe a little vanilla. Then the oak coats your mouth as the bittering hops come back in full force. Very thick and dense mouthfeel, something you just want to savor for hours.

Rating: A 

dsc01897Boulevard Smokestack Series Imperial Stout

One of Boulevard’s offerings in their Smokestack Series, and I’d have to say probably not my favorite of the bunch.

Pours with a jet black coloring, not much head, but a chocolately aroma mixed with possibly some licorice or molasses. A smoky quality in the taste, which I didn’t pick up in the nose. The sweet malt balances the bittering hops, but you do get a somewhat dry finish. Mouthfeel was a little thin, considering the style. But a decent imperial stout, nonetheless. I’d like to try it on its own sometime, instead of following a couple other big beers.

Rating: B

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I know you can get this in the Twin Cities, but I think I picked up Tyranena’s Bitter Woman IPA at Chicone’s in Hudson a while back.

I’ve had this on draught and from the bottle, and I think I like it a little better on draught, which is probably the case for many beers (and IPA’s in particular) that I’ve tried.

Poured with a huge fluffy head into my trusty Sam Adams Perfect Pint glass that, according to Boston Brewing Co., has been specifically engineered to unleash the full aroma and flavor potential of a beer (most notably Sam Adams Boston Lager, of course). Seems like a bit of a stretch, considering this beer glass is supposed to do everything from better maintain beer temperature, promote head retention, improve carbonation thanks to laser etchings on the bottom of the glass, and of course cure cancer and end conflict in the Middle East. But whatever, hats off to them for trying something new.  

Bitter Woman is very reminiscent in the nose to Sierra Nevada Pale Ale…clean and Cascade hoppy. Alot of the usual citrus and grapefruit-y aroma going on. Not sure when it was bottled, but the hops weren’t as aggressive as I remembered them being from a fresh keg, but that’s what happens as the hop resins subside over time. The color is nice, a rich copper tone that you don’t often see in some IPA’s.

Taste is good, but not as bitter as the name might suggest. I’d say definitely on the malty side of the IPA spectrum with more dominant flavors of caramel and toffee coming through. Very nice and refreshing mouthfeel thanks to the loads of bubbles in this one. It’s only 5.75% ABV, so definitely an offering you could hang out with for quite a while without needing to call in sick to work the next day.    

Rating: B

dsc01757Nobody likes drinking orange juice after brushing their teeth. The same general principle can be applied to beer…call it the Craft Beer Tiered Approach. Drinking massive beers with overpowering flavors and aromas followed up by relatively lighter offerings usually isn’t how most people do things. But sometimes, you just need to put the cart before the horse.

I’ve had a number of New Glarus offerings sitting in my cellar for a while, but for one reason or another haven’t gotten to them yet. Not sure why, since I’ve always heard pretty good things about these guys out of Wisconsin. I picked this one up from Chicone’s in Hudson, probably during the same run where I procured a handful of Dogfish Head, Stone and Tyranena stuff that’s either non-existent or hard-to-find around here. The day some of those breweries are distributed in the Twin Cities will be a good day indeed. I’ll be able to save on gas money, too. 

So I got home from work recently and wasn’t really in the mood for your standard IPA, or even easing into something a little more sessionable like a brown or ESB. No, I felt a little self-destructive. Like getting things started off on a big note. I turned to New Glarus Iced Barleywine, part of their Unplugged series where they let their brewers run amok and push the stylistic boundaries (similar to Tyranena’s Brewers Gone Wild line). Going back to the Tiered Approach concept, some might argue kicking off your evening with an extremely potent barleywine is the equivalent of palate-suicide, since every beer you have afterwards will taste distorted. But I said to hell with convention. I was going to pickle my senses with what was sure to be a unique beer experience.

New Glarus takes an interesting approach with this one, partially freezing the barleywine over a 12-week fermentation period to help concentrate and distill the flavor and alcohol. The result is a hugely intense beer, what I’d consider one of the sharpest tasting brews I’ve had in quite a long time.

Poured with a surprisingly big head considering the beer is 13.5% ABV. Deep ruby coloring and a massive nose of dark fruits and alcohol. Hops also in the mix, trending toward the American Barleywine side of the stylistic spectrum as opposed to more subdued English versions.

Taste up front is bready with significant overtones of the alcohol, which unfortunately is probably the dominating characteristic. I think in a couple years the alcohol will subside and reveal all that’s likely going on in the beer’s complexity. The bittering hops hit you pretty hard as well, especially in the finish. But aside from the alcohol and hop bite, there are some nice hints of prunes and anise floating around. Mouthfeel is OK, a little thin from the alcohol but I’m sure it will improve with time.   

Compared to other barleywines, not as balanced and smooth as Stone Old Guardian (basically my all-time favorite beer), but yet not nearly as horribly sweet and cloying as Rogue Old Crustacean. But I’d definitely try this one again, and plan to age the three other bottles I still have in my cellar for a few years to come.

Rating: B

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