Rating: B Plus


Sometimes I’ll read beer reviews, my own included, and realize that some of them are about three adjectives and a couple of choice nouns away from being mistaken as Penthouse Forum letters.

“Beautiful body, with legs for miles.”

“Seductive mouthfeel.”

“Intoxicating perfume, with a firm backbone that keeps you wanting more.”

Only thing missing is the handsome repairman coming to fix the bored housewife’s plumbing.

So instead of turning this into a Whitman-esque rendition of my thoughts on Three Floyd’s Rabbid Rabbit, I’ll just go ahead and call it one of the most unique American saisons I’ve tried in a long time.

I picked this one up on my Dark Lord Day excursion last year, since the brewery unfortunately does not distribute in Minnesota (yet), and have been cellaring it since. Poured with a golden coloring and dense head of carbonation, pretty lively and effervescent. Aroma is certainly fruity, and you do get some hops, but more than anything I was surprised that the beer truly smelled like graham crackers, which was very pleasing, a blend of cinnamon, nutmeg and other spices. Flavor was sweet, a soft mix of fruit and spice, without much of the 7.4% ABV coming through. Medium mouthfeel, with a sweet finish (not classically dry).

Overall, a really fun beer from a great brewery that stretches the style guidelines a bit.

Rating: B+

Where I Bought It: Three Floyd’s Brewery
Availability: Seasonal – released in March
Price: About $14 per 22 oz. bottle

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My time this afternoon tippling a few at Stub & Herb’s, just a stone’s throw from the gleaming new Gopher football stadium on the U of M campus, greatly reinforced my perception that the place is one of the best craft beer bars in the Twin Cities.

DSC02871The saloon was nearly empty when we arrived around noon, save for a few souls in a quiet booth in the back that, unlike most of the state’s populous, didn’t have the Fair on their minds.

Amazing that a college bar — stereotypically filled with macro swill, plastic cups and crates of Red Bull — has such a fantastic draught list, including nearly every Surly offering (Hell and 16 Grit just recently ran out before I got there!), a number of other locals like Lift Bridge, Flat Earth, Summit and Schells, and a dozen other notables from across the country. And it’s not just the stuff on tap…the staff are actually friendly and, get this, knowledgeable about what they’re pouring, a seemingly tall order in most bars around the city. Our bartender Benji offered some nice recommendations, including our lunch fare which included a Surly Bender French Dip, a great sandwich made with beef roasted in the oatmeal brown ale.

I tried a number of beers while we were there, most really hitting the mark.

Great Divide Hercules Double IPA
Probably not a great idea to start my afternoon off with a 9% ABV double IPA, but what the heck, it’s Sunday. A very aromatic IPA, but more on the dank side of the hop spectrum than protoypical, bright West Coast-style DIPA’s like, say, Pliny the Elder. Very bitter taste even for the style, almost a little too much for me. But fairly smooth throughout considering how boozey it is.   

Rating: B+

Lift Bridge Minnesota Tan
I’ve enjoyed nearly everything I’ve tried from Stillwater-based Lift Bridge, including their flagship Farm Girl Saison (I’m actually sipping a snifter as I write this), and their Minnesota Tan, a Belgian triple, was no different. Kind of nice to see a local brewery leading with a couple Belgian styles, but this one has certainly veered from the “traditional” path with an interesting pinkish coloring thanks to the lingonberries they brew with. A bit yeasty in the nose, a bit tart in the taste, leading to a nice sweet finish. Very enjoyable. And at 8.5% ABV, another one that’ll sneak up on you if you allow it.   

Rating A-

Flat Earth Sunburst Apricot Belgian Pale Ale
This is another pretty solid local offering. A light and refreshing aroma of apricot up front, fairly unique (although I think Town Hall has done an apricot wheat before). Taste is relatively similar to their regular Belgian Pale Ale, which is what I’m assuming is the base beer…more of the light tartness from the apricot coupled by some malty sweetness, leading to a dryness in the finish. 

Rating: B

Lagunitas Lil’ Sumpin Sumpin
Wow…this is everything I’ve heard about this beer and then some. It’s classified as an American pale wheat ale, but it screams IPA to me. Actually, very reminiscent in the aroma to Surly Furious, likely some combination of Warrior, Amarillo and Simcoe hops. Also got a little bit of citrus in there, grapefruit or lemon. Taste was not really what I’d expect for a wheat beer…far too much of a sweet and malty backbone, which did help balance the bitterness. You also get some of the honey they apparently use while brewing. Our bartender informed us that when this ran out, they were tapping Lagunitas’ Lil’ Sumpin Extra, a double IPA, which I can only assume builds on the success of this beer. 

Rating: A

Sierra Nevada Tripel
Never had this one before, and was frankly a bit surprised to learn Sierra Nevada has delved into the Belgian brewing tradition (to my knowledge, they’ve done a saison before, but that’s about it). Certainly reminiscent of a nice tripel like Chimay Cinq Cents, but kind of a Chimay “light” quality to it. Some American hops in the nose as well as yeast and clove, but overall a much lighter, more airy characteristic to the aroma (sort of how New Belgium is to Belgian beers). Taste is sweet and alcoholic, a bit dry in the finish. I guess I understand why they haven’t done more Belgians in the past.      

Rating: C+

Dark Horse Too Cream Stout
Ah, Dark Horse…one of my favorite breweries out of the Midwest. This is the last of their holiday stout series that I’ve tried, which also includes One Oatmeal Stout, Tres Blueberry Stout, Fore Smoked Stout and Plead the Fifth Imperial Stout. Loads of deep roasted malt notes in the aroma, along with milk chocolate. Tons of distinctive dark bitterness in the taste, presumably from the black patent malt I’m assuming they use in the grain bill, but expertly balanced by lactose to give it a silky smooth mouthfeel and wonderful overall impression. Probably the best beer I tried all day.

Rating: A

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Dark Horse Too Cream Stout

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Surly mural on the Stub's patio

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Soon-to-be-filled TCF Bank Stadium

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While they’re still being courted by distributors to determine who will carry them locally, the highly regarded 21st Amendment Brewery out of San Francisco will be hitting the Twin Cities market in the coming months with two offerings from their stable of beers – Brew Free or Die IPA and Hell or High Watermelon Wheat. No…your ears aren’t plugged. I did say a watermelon wheat.

According to the brewery’s representative I met with, their 12 barrel system back home at the brewpub clearly wasn’t going to be enough to handle the volume for this market expansion. So they made a quasi-contract brewing arrangement with Cold Springs here in northern Minnesota. But interestingly enough, 21st Amendment’s own head brewer, Shaun O’Sullivan, has flown out to personally oversee brewing and production of the beers. I’d imagine the boys at Cold Spring likely aren’t used to working with watermelon in bright tanks.

21st Amendment plans to offer their beers in cans, a nice move and a growing trend evidenced by fellow craft brewers like Surly, Oskar Blues and even New Belgium in select markets out west.

Hell or High Watermelon Wheat
Like alot of beers at smaller craft breweries, this apparently started as a homebrewed creation from co-founder Nico Freccia. They enjoyed it so much, it quickly became part of their regular rotation. Poured like a very light hefeweizen, a bit cloudy but a nice fruity aroma of various berries and watermelon. Taste was refreshing, trending a bit more to the watermelon side of the equation as opposed to wheat, but not bad. Somewhat thin mouthfeel, but for the style I’ll give it a pass. I gotta say, quite an interesting beer, and one I didn’t expect to enjoy as much as I did.

Rating: B+

Live Free or Die IPA
This is west coast all the way, with a load of Columbus, Tomahawk and Zeus (CTZ) hops smacking you in the nose right up front. But unlike most super ballsy IPAs that make your eyes water with IBU punishment, this one comes in at a mere 70 bittering points, putting it more in line on the hoppy spectrum with local stuff like Summit Horizon Red. Taste was fairly clean, not as much malt backbone as I’d like, but good overall. It’s a well-balanced beer, dare I say even to the point where one could mistake it for a pale ale in its relatively reserved nature. As I sipped the beer, it immediately invoked past memories of something else I’ve enjoyed…mildly reminiscent of a tamer version of Russian River’s Pliny the Elder in its bright hoppiness, if you’re fortunate enough to have tried that. I’m sure this one will be well received here in the Twin Cities.  

Rating: B+

DSC02646I think this is highly unfortunate, but from various discussions with other craft beer lovers, it seems that August Schell gets knocked around as being your average “macro” brewer, using various adjuncts to make up parts of their grain bills. I think this is in fact true, but not for all (or even most) of their beers (their kolsch, as an example, as well as the beer you’re about to read about). Potentially fueling this negative perception may also be their stylistic approach, as some equate their stable of beers — most of which are more traditional German-style lagers — as somewhat of a letdown in today’s world of off-the-wall, superhopped, bourbon barrel-aged madness. If it wasn’t brewed by a monk, or didn’t come straight out of a tiny brewery in San Diego offering limited release triple IPAs, what’s the point, right? 

What I do know is Schells currently ranks as the 25th largest brewery in the country based on 2008 sales volume, just behind a few notables like Bell’s, Goose Island and Anchor. When I look for Schells, I usually pick up one of their sampler packs to get a bit of variety, and truth be told, not all of their stuff has blown me away. But really, what brewer always does? 

Adjuncts or not, as a privately held family-run operation for nearly 150 years putting out what in my opinion is very solid stuff (like their MaiFest I really enjoyed earlier this spring or their very tasty Stout), I think Schells deserves a serious look as one of the best regional breweries in the country.

FireBrick is one of those Schells offerings that I see most of the year, and ignorantly take for granted. You don’t find a great number of Vienna Lagers around, unless of course you count the ubiquitous Sam Adams Boston Lager (which I have somewhat of a hard time classifying in this category given its overtly hoppy nose), or maybe even Dos Equis and Negra Modelo (the style has flourished in Mexico since the late 1800′s thanks to Austrian brewer immigrants). But FireBrick is in a different ballpark altogether.

Apparently named after the red bricks that line Schell’s old boilers at the brewery (I need to get down to New Ulm for a tour at some point), the beer pours a very rich, amberish coloring with a two finger head that leaves a lingering lace on the glass. Nice Vienna and Munich maltiness in the aroma, bready and toasted with caramel notes coming through. A pleasing, sweet maltiness in the taste, with a medium mouthfeel. Not nearly as hopped up as Boston Lager, but you do get a slight bite in the finish from the Vanguard, Chinook and Hallertau they use. A very enjoyable and refreshing beer. 

Rating: B+

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Some days are better than others.

Most days, I wake up, head to work, and if I’m lucky, I may cap off my drudgery with a nice beer or two. Usually a homebrew, but maybe even something highly rated on the Beer Advocate “Best Of” list. While spending a long weekend in New York City, I may have completely outdone myself, reaching heights not likely to be attained again any time soon. Some may not immediately think of NYC as a beer town, at least compared to other locales out West. But after hitting up Brooklyn Brewery, a few of the best craft beer bars in America, and a stop at one of the tastiest BBQ joints I’ve come across north of the Mason-Dixon, I think NYC should be near the top of every beer geek’s list of places to go.

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Westy 12 & Rochefort 10

Along for the ride and serving as our very gracious tour guide of the city was my good friend Aaron over at The Vice Blog, New York’s favorite beer blogger, who joined my brother-in-law and me at our hotel to kick off the weekend with your average, run-of-the-mill tasting that included a few beers you may have heard of…Westy 12, 8 and Blonde; Dark Lord 2009; Lost Abbey Angel’s Share Brandy Barrel-Aged 2008 and Bourbon Barrel-Aged 2009; and Rochefort 10. Just standing in the presence of these assembled beers, I almost didn’t want to ruin the moment by cracking the first bottle open. But that of course would be ridiculously stupid. 

We started off with a blind tasting of Westy 12 and Rochefort 10 (which some deem to be nearly identical), and surprisingly showed that not only was Westy 12 the significantly more desirable beer (much maltier and sweeter, in our collective opinion) than Rochefort 10, it made Rochefort 10 seem more akin to a poorly concocted homebrew than a finely crafted Trappist quadrupel. Really…I’m not trying to be insulting or funny, the beer smelled faintly like vomit or rancid cheese, which completely surprised me. The taste was OK, though.

DSC02511The Angel’s Share bottles were excellent in their own right, certainly both A-level beers. The Brandy Barrel-Aged version, from my understanding, is the one that gets knocked for its lack of carbonation, but it didn’t bother me in the least. Both versions poured with a huge, full-frontal assault of booze and dark malts, very reminiscent in that regard to Goose Island’s Bourbon County Stout or Founders Canadian Breakfast Stout. Burnt malt and coffee notes with both, and a medium mouthfeel. I really enjoyed both of these beers, tough to say which is better.   

DSC02535After a phenomenal afternoon session, I felt a little like Han Solo emerging from his cell of carbonite as we stumbled out into the blindingly sun-drenched streets of Manhattan. We pushed on to Rattle n’ Hum, a fairly new beer bar a block from the Empire State Building that immediately makes any beer lover feel like they’ve hit the big leagues. Nicely appointed, warm wood throughout, and arguably one of the most impressive tap and bottle lists I’ve ever seen this side of Belgium. A true beer oasis.

DSC02530After sampling a handful of great beers including Stone Russian Imperial Stout, Sixpoint Northern Lights, Dogfish 90 Minute and Weihenstephaner Hefeweiss on draught, we asked the bartender if she per chance happened to have an extra bottle of Alesmith Yulesmith floating around somewhere behind the bar. Not seeing it on the menu, but hearing rumors that it had recently been on the premises, we figured it was worth a shot. Lo and behold, she emerged from the depths of the beer cooler with a nicely chilled bottle and plunked it down in front of our bulging eyes.

DSC02542This being my first ever Alesmith tasting, I didn’t have much to compare it to when it came to the brewery itself, but Yulesmith really knocked my socks off. It’s a double IPA billed as a holiday beer, which like Sierra Nevada’s annual Celebration Ale series always makes me scratch my head a bit. I guess out in California, hops equal holiday cheer.

Poured with a nice billowing head bursting with citric hops and spiciness. Beautiful malt backbone, a great balance between the sweet and bitter. Slick and oily from the hop resins, leading to a lingering bitter finish. Really a nice example of a very well put together West Coast IPA. I’d give it at least an A.   

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Nicely pickled, we continued the beer parade by catching a cab for Brooklyn Brewery to check out their happy hour and sample some of their finest. After a long and winding drive through several very hip Brooklyn neighborhoods, we arrived and walked in to an amazing scene. Tons of craft beer lovers (and a few folks who clearly didn’t realize how good they had it) packed into a very cool warehouse space amidst an ambience-inducing bottling line and handful of bright tanks. Right up front, they also had a great display of antique beer bottles, most of which were from former breweries in the city. A great touch from what I assume is the consummate historian and renaissance man himself, Garrett Oliver.

DSC02555We sampled a handful of their stuff on draught including Blanche de Brooklyn (a yeasty witbier), Sorachi Ace (a very peppery saison, part of their Brewmaster’s Series) and Intensified Coffee Stout (one of the best coffee beers I’ve ever had, in league with Surly Coffee Bender and Great Divide’s Yeti). The single line to get a beer at the pouring station was a mile long, but somehow we were able to bypass all of this by making friends with the bartenders. After a few beers, we decided to share a bottle of Local 1, a Belgian pale, having recently favorably reviewed their Local 2. Very nice, a delicate use of malt and hops, but nothing too mind blowing. Probably a strong B-level beer.  

After getting our fill at Brooklyn Brewery, we somehow found a cab, which was a bit of serendipity given our location in a somewhat desolate part of Brooklyn, and made our way to The Ginger Man, another highly regarded New York craft beer bar. I’d provide some pictures from the experience, which like Rattle n’ Hum was jaw-dropping in the number of hard-to-find and vintage stuff on hand, but I was frankly too mesmerized with a snifter of Goose Island Night Stalker to pay much mind to the camera. Deep chocolate nose, booze in the back end from the hefty 12% ABV, and a very full, solid mouthfeel throughout. Certainly an A-level kind of beer, if only for the fact that it lasted approximately 2 minutes before I’d guzzled it all down.

Later this week: Dinosaurs BBQ and The Blind Tiger

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Brooklyn Local 1

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You could say cider and I haven’t really been the best of friends.

My first exposure to strong cider was in Ireland when, amidst many pints of Guinness at a small pub in Galway, I was challenged to a drinking competition by a local who thought a kid from Minnesota couldn’t outdrink a seafaring Irishman in a test of chugging ability. Well, he was right, as I proceeded to quickly down an entire glass of hard cider (I’ve suppressed which brand) in less than five seconds, narrowly being beaten by my nearly incomprehensible competitor (real Irish accents are tough enough to discern, let alone after a dozen drinks). I then proceeded to stumble to the back of the pub in search of the restroom so I could discretely get sick, only to discover that the door marked “Lads” actually opened up to the alley behind the establishment where several other drinking compatriots were relieving themselves on a stone wall. Classy.

Fast forward about 10 years. My palate has improved, while my tolerance has not. So I thought it was time to give this category another go to see what the world of strong cider, at least locally in the Twin Cities, had to offer. If it was good enough in 14th century Ireland to baptize babies in (weird, but true), then I guess it deserves another look.

Crispin Natural Hard Apple Cider
Crispin is a local company, in the sense that they’re headquartered here in Minneapolis. They don’t use Minnesota apples, but rather produce their cider out in northern California. According to the company, they take the high road compared to competitors by refusing to use any malt, spirits, grape alcohols or additives like sugar or colorants. Just pure, wholesome apple juice blends. They naturally ferment with classic red wine yeasts to give it its unique flavor. And wine is a pretty apt descriptor, as it reminded me much more of a fine white wine than what I’d assumed would be a cloying, sappy cider. Crispin comes in three varietals, the original, brut and a light version. I went with the original for this taste test.

Poured with a very quickly dissipating head, almost like champagne. Light golden coloring, reminiscent of a very light lager. Beautiful bouquet of apple, pear and other delicate fruit in the nose. I found it interesting that the aroma actually reminded me of a mellow apple flavored Jolley Rancher candy. Not a knock, just what I associated it with. The taste is unique, a nice tang up front with soft apple that gently fades into a smooth finish. Not overly tart or aggressive in the least. I did notice a slightly perceptible bit of alcohol in the finish.Comes in at just 5% ABV, so you could certainly sit down with a few of these on a warm summer evening. I enjoyed this one, and look forward to trying their other two offerings.

Rating: A- 

Magners Irish Cider
This is Great Britian’s number one selling hard cider. Made in County Tipperary, Ireland, the company uses 17 different apple varieties to make their unique blend, and are in fact one of the largest purchasers of apple crops in the country (both Republic and Northern Ireland).

Poured a comparatively darker color than Crispin, more like a ruddy orange. As a beer guy, the aroma of Magners was surprisingly more pleasing to my sensibilities, having a very woody, almost hop-like character. Definitely not as much of the overt apple smell. Taste was relatively sweet, not as delicate as Crispin. More of the earthy, woody character as well. I notice the ingredient listing on the side of the bottle rattles off sugar, malic acid, preservatives and added coloring. Hmm, I guess Crispin wasn’t kidding. Magners is 6% ABV, which wasn’t very noticeable. Not bad overall, reminded me more of a beer in some ways. A very different cider than the first one in the line-up.

Rating: B-

Original Sin Hard Cider
This one comes out of New York, although it appears to be contract brewed down in Florida by Indian River Brewing. They use Granny Smith apples and champagne yeast, which is very evident in the pour. Very light and effervescent, with a watered down lemonade coloring. They also claim no additives, and I’d buy that as the apple aroma comes off much better than Magners. I can definitely tell they use Granny Smith, as you get some of that biting ester in the nose. The taste is surprisingly not that bitter, but what is there tends to linger throughout the finish. Another one that comes in at 6% ABV.

Rating: B+

White Winter Hard Apple Cider
Brewed up in the Bayfield Peninsula of Wisconsin, White Winter  is apparently more of a winery and mead maker. Poured very light, just the slightest tinge of straw coloring. A bit of that woodiness in the aroma mixed with apple, but not as evident as Magners. I was a little disappointed with the taste, as there really didn’t seem to be much to it. Fairly watery, not much apple, but you do get a definite bite in the finish. They use a touch of honey to brew this cider, and you can tell in the distinctly dry quality throughout. Only 4.5% ABV, so the lightest of the bunch.

Rating: B-

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First off, I am no scotch expert.

Sure, I love The Macallan, Lagavulin, and even a blend like Johnnie Walker (Black or better) in a pinch. And I’d like to think my palate is trained enough to discern a “good” scotch whisky from a poorly crafted one. I know what I like, and I know what I don’t like. Although, my general approach to scotch out in the wild is more like Jon Favreau in that classic scene from Swingers. Yeah, guy behind the guy.

I recently came into the possession of a beautifully crafted bottle of The Naked Grouse, a new offering from The Edrington Group, the folks that bring you The Famous Grouse, Scotland’s most popular scotch whisky (not an indication that it’s necessarily good, just saying). I won’t belabor you with all the details on The Naked Grouse, as Heavy Table recently ran a very good overview. However, I will tell you that The Naked Grouse is only sold in the Twin Cities right now, their first test market in the U.S. for the product. So if it works here, you should see it soon in your area.

I took it neat, which is how I always prefer my scotch*. They blend several spirits to make it, using The Famous Grouse as the base and adding single malts from The Macallan and Highland Park, so I would guess you could consider this a “higher end” blended scotch whisky. They age it in sherry casks for a short while, helping mature the blend.

I buried my nose in the glass for about 15 minutes before I even took my first sip. The aroma is sweeter than I’d expect for an 80 proof scotch, maybe from the grain whisky they use to smooth things out. Definite vanilla and caramel, and really not much of the harsh alcohol characteristic that seems to turn off many scotch novices. Pretty creamy and inviting.  

I took a nice sip, and then spit it out. Call me a complete dork, but this is in fact a good thing when you’re tasting scotch whisky. The high alcohol content (of most spirits, actually) mask the true flavor profile of the liquor. So clearing the liquid actually gives you a much better impression of what’s truly going on. Nice roasted flavor, almost like chocolate. A little oakey, and you can pick up a bit of the sherry.

I don’t think mouthfeel is a consideration with a scotch like it is with a beer, primarily since it isn’t carbonated. But The Naked Grouse did pleasantly explode off the tongue in the finish, leading to a subtle, yet building, alcohol burn that enveloped my mouth.

I enjoyed this one, and think it’d be a nice pick for folks interested in dipping their toes into the world of scotch. Well done.    

 Rating: B+

* As I’ve said before on this blog, adding a dab of lukewarm water to liven up the whisky is just fine. But seriously, putting ice in a finely crafted spirit is like dumping cubes into a highly regarded vintage of pouilly fuisse to chill it down. Total waste.

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A two for one deal today.

I’d never heard about Central Waters Brewing out of Amherst, Wisconsin until my good friend and fellow homebrewer Dariush brought me a couple bottles from a recent trip across the border, their Glacial Trail IPA and Satin Solstice Imperial Stout.

Like a growing number of brewers, both large and small, Central Waters is on the path to environmental sustainability. And from the sounds of it, they recently entered what they call in the energy services business a performance contract. Essentially, all conservation measures associated with improving the brewery facilities such as new fluorescent lighting, upgrades to high-efficiency motors, and heating and cooling improvements are financed by the long-term energy savings the upgrades are guaranteed to bring about. In the case of Central Waters, that’s about $1.5 million in reduced utility costs over the course of the contract (probably 10-15 years).

It’s a great deal for them, since there’s no upfront capital lay out, allowing the brewery to get the work done without cutting into their operating budget, an important consideration for any small business, but especially for a capital-intensive manufacturing company. And the best part…if the brewery doesn’t realize the guaranteed energy savings, their energy services company picks up the shortfall.

This year, they also installed roughly 1,000 square feet of solar collectors, 24 panels in all, allowing them to reduce their natural gas consumption by about 2500 therms a year. In real terms, that’s the equivalent of taking about three cars off the road each year or planting three acres of trees.

But enough about their green practices. How’s the beer?

DSC02193Glacial Trail IPA
Very impressed with the aroma up front. Huge fluffy head full of hop resins, capping what is a very nice looking orange ale. Citrus, pine, floral, in some ways very reminiscent of Oskar Blues Gordon. Lots of hop sediment floating around after the pour from what I’m sure was a healthy dry hop.

Taste is on the sweeter, maltier side balanced by some of the hop bitterness. A little bready, but probably more of the herbal qualities. Finishes strong, with lots of biting hops in the end. Medium body and mouthfeel. A solid IPA, impressed with my first ever beer from these guys.

Rating: B+

Satin Solstice Imperial Stout 
Here’s where the review takes a turn. Satin Solstice poured into a snifter like greased lightning…not the characteristic oozing “glug glug” kind of a pour I’m accustomed to in thick, viscous imperial stouts. For a moment, I really thought I was looking at a brown ale when I saw the relatively light colored beer shooting out of the bottle. That aside, the aroma was pleasing. Molasses, caramel and some vanilla.   

The taste was OK, but a little simplistic. Mainly an overabundance of bitter, roasted malt, and not enough of the Crystal malt sweetness or chocolate notes I’d look for. The booze pushed through at the end, which didn’t come off as well as it might in some other imperial stouts given the one-dimensional nature of the flavor. Mouthfeel was also a little watery and thin, as evidenced by the pour. Overall, not a disaster, but not the kind of complexity and bold richness I look for in an imperial stout.  

Rating: C+

And as is the case with all my bottled beers, Central Waters would be glad to know I plan to reuse the empties for my homebrew. Little guys can be sustainable too.

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DSC02131Flat Earth Brewing has a pretty good thing going over in St. Paul.

Stopped in last week to check out their growler selection and have another sample of their Cygnus X-1 porter, which I recently reviewed. It was clear from my first experience with Cygnus I was the unfortunate recipient of one of their off bottles from the Flanders Red yeast incident. However, a completely different experience this time around fresh from the brewery…Cygnus is such a nice porter, rich and robust with the right balance of dark malts and subtle hops. I really enjoyed it, and felt a little like a freeloader taking more than my fair share of free samples they were offering up at the growler table. But I eventually bought a couple growlers, so it all evened out.

One of those growlers consisted of Flat Earth’s Xanadu, their fairly limited availability orange-infused version of Cygnus X-1 that proved to be endlessly intriguing the more I tried it. Xanadu kicks off with a potent citrus nose, which is of course not the kind of thing you’d expect in this style, but it’s exactly the reason why this beer is so delicious and unique. Owner Jeff Williamson mentioned they give each growler a shot of their homemade orange extract to give it that effect, a combination of orange fruit, zest, and maybe some kind of liqueur (if memory serves me correctly). On the back end, the roasted chocolate sneaks in to round things out in the aroma, giving the beer a deeply satisfying quality you come to expect in a well-crafted porter or stout. It’s such a nice combination.

The flavor is just as intense…some serious chocolate and roasted malt up front with a nicely biting, slightly acidic citrus finish. Reminded me of those orange truffles you get around the holidays. The more I drank Xanadu, the more I liked it. But after a couple glasses, the orange characteristic did overwhelm the senses, even giving me a bit of heartburn. In some respects, I’d almost consider Xanadu a dessert beer, something to savor slowly while paired with a nice vanilla cheesecake or even drizzled over ice cream.  

Rating: B+

DSC02098Local beer #2 in my celebration of American Craft Beer Week. And when I say local, I’m talking regionally brewed.

New Glarus is a fantastic little brewery out in, well, New Glarus, Wisconsin, and most of their beers get a lot of rating respect on sites like Beer Advocate and RateBeer. I’ve had several of their offerings, including Spotted Cow, Unplugged Iced Barleywine, and Edel Pils. And their Hop Hearty IPA is right in line with the rest, very well-crafted and exceedingly delicious. 

Aroma is filled with a boat load of piney hops — possibly Simcoe, Warrior and Amarillo — with a very pleasing caramel backdrop from the malt. They also dry hop with Cascade and East Kent Goldings, kicking up the hoppy nose. Beautiful deep amber coloring, and a big fluffy head that leaves sticky webs of hop resin and lacing on the glass. The taste is very nice, a blend of caramel and some citrus. A formidable bitterness after the caramel fades, but not overpowering, giving way to small hints of alcohol heat in the finish from the 6% ABV. 

My overall impression is that this is a very nice, balanced beer. Not one of the masterpieces in the IPA world, like Russian River’s Pliny the Elder or even Dogfish Head 60 Minute. But Hop Hearty definitely holds its own, and really reminded me of Oskar Blues Gordon, an ultra-hoppy IPA brimming over with aromatic hops and bready malt.

Rating: B+

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