Rating: A


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For whatever reason, Dieu du Ciel (God of the Sky) is one of those breweries that has slowly elevated itself into mythical status in my mind.

Based in Quebec with two small brewpubs in Montreal and St. Jerome, I think their somewhat exotic locale (in a Canadian sense) is what drives most of it for me, since the odds of me ever physically visiting these guys are about as good as Brett Favre finishing out this coming season injury-free. Expectedly, they brew in small quantities, and I don’t believe they bottle everything they make. In short, their stuff can be very difficult to come by. So when I heard the fabled Peche Mortel* (Mortal Sin), currently ranked in the top 20 on Beer Advocate’s “Best Of” list, had found its way to the shelves of The Four Firkins, I made a bee-line to pick up a bottle.

Poured with a nice craggy, cratered head that fell apart slowly. This really does make most other coffee beers smell and taste like Sanka. Probably the most pronounced coffee richness I’ve ever experienced except for, well, a double shot of espresso coffee (hold the sugar). Also a bit of oak, smoke and leather in the aroma. Taste is equally impressive, a combination of the darkest chocolate, roasted malt and a very dry, bittering coffee flavor that quickly coats your mouth. A bit hot in the finish, with a fairly hefty 9.5% ABV. While there is some nice complexity going on, probably a bit too aggressive on the coffee front overall for me to give it an absolutely world-class ranking in the imperial stout category. But man, is this a beer. 

Rating: A

* On a side note, what is it with brewers in Quebec going with these quasi-spiritual, Gothic themed beers? Unibroue’s La Fin du Monde and Don de Dieu? Dieu du Ciel’s Rigor Mortis and Resurrection?

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You kind of have to be an arrogant bastard to make the so-called Bacon Explosion.

By now, I’m sure most of you have at least heard rumors of this BBQ blitzkrieg of a meal. If not, check out the recent NY Times article detailing its glory.

Bacon Explosion is an exercise in excess. An orgy of over-consumption. And it seemed to go very well with Stone Oaked Arrogant Bastard, a nice complement to the hickory-smokiness coming from the more than two pounds of bacon wrapped around two pounds of pork sausage, and then all of it slathered in copious amounts of BBQ sauce.

DSC02628After enjoying the meal, which also included homemade baked beans, potato salad and country-style biscuits, I had to take an extended time-out on the couch to let my stomach figure out what in the hell I had just put it through. It was so damn good going down, but it felt like a lead weight in my belly, exascerbated by the palpable rise in cholesterol that slowly but surely sent me spinning into heartburn city, and eventually put me into a bit of a food coma. In short, it was everything Bacon Explosion should be.

Stone Oaked Arrogant Bastard adds to its already superb regular version with a subtle tinge of oaky goodness, just enough to let you know its there without overpowering the hops and malt already working in harmony to make this one of the better American craft beers on the market. 

Rating: A 

Oaked Arrogant Bastard

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Some days are better than others.

Most days, I wake up, head to work, and if I’m lucky, I may cap off my drudgery with a nice beer or two. Usually a homebrew, but maybe even something highly rated on the Beer Advocate “Best Of” list. While spending a long weekend in New York City, I may have completely outdone myself, reaching heights not likely to be attained again any time soon. Some may not immediately think of NYC as a beer town, at least compared to other locales out West. But after hitting up Brooklyn Brewery, a few of the best craft beer bars in America, and a stop at one of the tastiest BBQ joints I’ve come across north of the Mason-Dixon, I think NYC should be near the top of every beer geek’s list of places to go.

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Westy 12 & Rochefort 10

Along for the ride and serving as our very gracious tour guide of the city was my good friend Aaron over at The Vice Blog, New York’s favorite beer blogger, who joined my brother-in-law and me at our hotel to kick off the weekend with your average, run-of-the-mill tasting that included a few beers you may have heard of…Westy 12, 8 and Blonde; Dark Lord 2009; Lost Abbey Angel’s Share Brandy Barrel-Aged 2008 and Bourbon Barrel-Aged 2009; and Rochefort 10. Just standing in the presence of these assembled beers, I almost didn’t want to ruin the moment by cracking the first bottle open. But that of course would be ridiculously stupid. 

We started off with a blind tasting of Westy 12 and Rochefort 10 (which some deem to be nearly identical), and surprisingly showed that not only was Westy 12 the significantly more desirable beer (much maltier and sweeter, in our collective opinion) than Rochefort 10, it made Rochefort 10 seem more akin to a poorly concocted homebrew than a finely crafted Trappist quadrupel. Really…I’m not trying to be insulting or funny, the beer smelled faintly like vomit or rancid cheese, which completely surprised me. The taste was OK, though.

DSC02511The Angel’s Share bottles were excellent in their own right, certainly both A-level beers. The Brandy Barrel-Aged version, from my understanding, is the one that gets knocked for its lack of carbonation, but it didn’t bother me in the least. Both versions poured with a huge, full-frontal assault of booze and dark malts, very reminiscent in that regard to Goose Island’s Bourbon County Stout or Founders Canadian Breakfast Stout. Burnt malt and coffee notes with both, and a medium mouthfeel. I really enjoyed both of these beers, tough to say which is better.   

DSC02535After a phenomenal afternoon session, I felt a little like Han Solo emerging from his cell of carbonite as we stumbled out into the blindingly sun-drenched streets of Manhattan. We pushed on to Rattle n’ Hum, a fairly new beer bar a block from the Empire State Building that immediately makes any beer lover feel like they’ve hit the big leagues. Nicely appointed, warm wood throughout, and arguably one of the most impressive tap and bottle lists I’ve ever seen this side of Belgium. A true beer oasis.

DSC02530After sampling a handful of great beers including Stone Russian Imperial Stout, Sixpoint Northern Lights, Dogfish 90 Minute and Weihenstephaner Hefeweiss on draught, we asked the bartender if she per chance happened to have an extra bottle of Alesmith Yulesmith floating around somewhere behind the bar. Not seeing it on the menu, but hearing rumors that it had recently been on the premises, we figured it was worth a shot. Lo and behold, she emerged from the depths of the beer cooler with a nicely chilled bottle and plunked it down in front of our bulging eyes.

DSC02542This being my first ever Alesmith tasting, I didn’t have much to compare it to when it came to the brewery itself, but Yulesmith really knocked my socks off. It’s a double IPA billed as a holiday beer, which like Sierra Nevada’s annual Celebration Ale series always makes me scratch my head a bit. I guess out in California, hops equal holiday cheer.

Poured with a nice billowing head bursting with citric hops and spiciness. Beautiful malt backbone, a great balance between the sweet and bitter. Slick and oily from the hop resins, leading to a lingering bitter finish. Really a nice example of a very well put together West Coast IPA. I’d give it at least an A.   

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Nicely pickled, we continued the beer parade by catching a cab for Brooklyn Brewery to check out their happy hour and sample some of their finest. After a long and winding drive through several very hip Brooklyn neighborhoods, we arrived and walked in to an amazing scene. Tons of craft beer lovers (and a few folks who clearly didn’t realize how good they had it) packed into a very cool warehouse space amidst an ambience-inducing bottling line and handful of bright tanks. Right up front, they also had a great display of antique beer bottles, most of which were from former breweries in the city. A great touch from what I assume is the consummate historian and renaissance man himself, Garrett Oliver.

DSC02555We sampled a handful of their stuff on draught including Blanche de Brooklyn (a yeasty witbier), Sorachi Ace (a very peppery saison, part of their Brewmaster’s Series) and Intensified Coffee Stout (one of the best coffee beers I’ve ever had, in league with Surly Coffee Bender and Great Divide’s Yeti). The single line to get a beer at the pouring station was a mile long, but somehow we were able to bypass all of this by making friends with the bartenders. After a few beers, we decided to share a bottle of Local 1, a Belgian pale, having recently favorably reviewed their Local 2. Very nice, a delicate use of malt and hops, but nothing too mind blowing. Probably a strong B-level beer.  

After getting our fill at Brooklyn Brewery, we somehow found a cab, which was a bit of serendipity given our location in a somewhat desolate part of Brooklyn, and made our way to The Ginger Man, another highly regarded New York craft beer bar. I’d provide some pictures from the experience, which like Rattle n’ Hum was jaw-dropping in the number of hard-to-find and vintage stuff on hand, but I was frankly too mesmerized with a snifter of Goose Island Night Stalker to pay much mind to the camera. Deep chocolate nose, booze in the back end from the hefty 12% ABV, and a very full, solid mouthfeel throughout. Certainly an A-level kind of beer, if only for the fact that it lasted approximately 2 minutes before I’d guzzled it all down.

Later this week: Dinosaurs BBQ and The Blind Tiger

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Brooklyn Local 1

I’ve now been to the mountaintop of the beer world, folks. Or, so the hype goes.

Rather extended video review of Westy 12, including a bit of back story up front from my friend Rob who procured the beers straight from the monks at St. Sixtus, and then a couple minutes of us enjoying the beer. Sorry about the watermarks in the beginning and end, I need to get some decent video editing software (read: not freeware or trial versions).

Rating: A

DSC02185I got bugs
I got bugs in my room
Bugs in my bed
Bugs in my ears
Their eggs in my head
          – Pearl Jam

Since enjoying Victory’s Wild Devil at last week’s hops festival hosted by the Blue Nile, I haven’t been able to think of much else but bugs in my beer. 

As is often the case when I find a craft beer that I really enjoy, I try to reverse engineer it. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, right? So how best to go about creating my own homebrewed version of an IPA incorporating everyone’s favorite wild yeast strain, Brettanomyces? The interplay of pungent barnyard aromas from the funkified culture punctuated by the citrusy hop bitterness make Wild Devil a fantastic beer, and I intend to celebrate it to the best of my amateur zymurgistic abilities. I haven’t quite worked out all the particulars, such as whether to use Brett as my main workhorse yeast in the primary (something done to marvelous effect by breweries like Lost Abbey and Russian River), or add it to secondary as many brewers tend to do. But regardless, I’ll be brewing soon, after a particularly long hiatus. Looking forward to getting back in the laboratory.

To quench my preoccupation in the meantime, I decided to sit down with another musty, Brett-induced ale, this one from highly regarded Trappist brewery Orval.

First time I tried Orval I was shocked. Maybe it was the elegantly shaped brown bottle that suggested some kind of dark Belgian candi treat, or possibly the fact that I’d been enjoying a handful of other fine Trappist ales like Chimay Premiere and Rochefort 10. But Orval is a beautifully delicate Belgian pale ale, a big departure from what you might otherwise normally expect from many Trappist monasteries producing earthy dubbels laden with dark fruits, or boozey quads. Orval is a nicely hopped beer, marked by a massive dosing of Brett in the aroma. From what I gather, they bottle condition using Brett Bruxellensis, what White Labs describes as a “medium” intensity wild yeast that doesn’t knock you off your socks with overly aggressive sweaty horse blanket characteristics, but rather evokes a “cleaner” interpretation of the strain.

Pours a flowing, creamy head and copper coloring. Whatever mild lemon and pear-like fruitiness there is in the aroma is quickly dispersed by the Brett…highly intriguing. At first sip, a light malt character that quickly turns to a mildly biting, puckering dry finish that’s both sour and bitter. Some phenols mixed in too. Mouthfeel is very full for such a light ale, cleverly disguising the 6.9% ABV.

If anyone wonders what Brett is all about, or fine Trappist ales for that matter, just crack an Orval. A timeless, classic beer.

Rating: A

If you haven’t been over to Kramarczuk’s in Northeast Minneapolis, I recommend you go as quickly as you can.

It’s a fantastic little neighborhood sausage maker, bakery and restaurant all wrapped into one. They’ve been making some of the best sausages this side of the Mississippi since 1954, and have truly made a name for themselves as a Minneapolis landmark. This last weekend, several of us got together for a little spring cook-out, and my friend tossed Kramarczuk’s andouille and curried brats on the grill. It was seriously some of the best stuff I’ve ever had. And paired with two incredible IPA’s and a nice imperial stout,  you couldn’t really ask for a better evening. Here’s the rundown on the beers:

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Houblon Chouffe Dobbelen IPA Tripel

This is a fantastic and unique blend of a Belgian IPA/Tripel from Brasserie d’Achouffe. Pours with a big yeasty head, with all kinds of champagne-like carbonation escaping from the beautiful lemonade colored beer below. The hops are certainly there in the nose, but the yeast also plays a nice role, kind of like each knows their place in the symphony. Some apple and pear notes come through as well.

Taste is magnificent. Unlike the nose, which trends more to the IPA side, you get more of the sweet malty tripel effect combined with some of the yeast and alcohol. A spicy finish that keeps you coming back for more. Really one of the more complex and well-balanced beers I’ve had in a long time. I’m hoping Alvey at the Four Firkins still has some of this in stock.   

Rating: A 

dsc01883Southern Tier Oak-Aged Unearthly Imperial IPA

As if Houblon Chouffe didn’t impress me, along comes Southern Tier with its enormously complex Oak-Aged Unearthly Imperial IPA.

My wine conoisseur friend, who has one of the more finely tuned palates I know of, couldn’t get over how well the oakiness came through like a fine wine. Not too much, but perfectly balanced with the combination of piney hops and caramel malt.

Pours with a great amber coloring, not a big head but you still get a great nose of the oak and hops. Taste is extraordinary, just so much going on. At once you get the big malt backbone, some caramel, maybe a little vanilla. Then the oak coats your mouth as the bittering hops come back in full force. Very thick and dense mouthfeel, something you just want to savor for hours.

Rating: A 

dsc01897Boulevard Smokestack Series Imperial Stout

One of Boulevard’s offerings in their Smokestack Series, and I’d have to say probably not my favorite of the bunch.

Pours with a jet black coloring, not much head, but a chocolately aroma mixed with possibly some licorice or molasses. A smoky quality in the taste, which I didn’t pick up in the nose. The sweet malt balances the bittering hops, but you do get a somewhat dry finish. Mouthfeel was a little thin, considering the style. But a decent imperial stout, nonetheless. I’d like to try it on its own sometime, instead of following a couple other big beers.

Rating: B

dsc01681Tyranena Brewing out of Lake Mills, Wisconsin puts out some nice beers.

From what I can tell, they don’t get a very wide distribution in the Twin Cities compared to some other Wisconsin beers like say, oh, Miller Lite. But it’s around if you look. Of the three or four Tyranena offerings I’ve tried over the past few years, including Bitter Woman IPA and Rocky’s Revenge, they’ve all impressed me with their complexity and originality. Their Brewers Gone Wild Series takes this tradition one step further, giving us over-hopped, barrel-aged, imperialized beer hounds something to savor. And as part of the series, their Devil Made Me Do It! Coffee Imperial Oatmeal Porter didn’t disappoint.      

According to Tyranena, 60% of the beer is brewed with coffee beans (although I swear it smells like cold-pressed) and then aged in bourbon barrels, while the remainder is simply brewed with coffee beans and normally conditioned. Bring the two together, and you get an expertly balanced porter that makes you glad that the Devil was so persuasive.

Poured into a snifter with a jet black body and very minimal head. A big and robust coffee aroma hits you right away, and if I had to compare, very reminiscent of Surly Coffee Bender. No real hops to speak of. Some chocolate notes and a beautiful roasted quality also come through. So far so good. 

Taste is more of the roasted flavor and bittersweet chocolate. They certainly used some black patent malt, but not enough to give it a burnt, acidic quality like you get with some stouts. Heat from the 7.5% ABV does come through a bit, slightly accentuated as the subtle oaky bourbon flavor kicks in near the end. Finishes nicely with the help of the silky oatmeal to smooth out all the big flavors.

A truly enjoyable and drinkable beer.

Rating: A

The inaugural First Tuesday Beer Club meeting last month at Acadia went so well, we decided to do it again.

For the March gathering, our ragtag ensemble of fellow craft beer appreciators descended upon the Muddy Pig in St. Paul, a great neighborhood watering hole that has been host to several of my more memorable drinking excursions of late.

Unlike the first go-round, I decided to take it a little easier considering I was 1) driving, and 2) had a busy work day ahead of me on Wednesday. So I kept it to a handful of craft beers, one local and a couple from the coasts. Here’s the rundown:

Lift Bridge Farm Girl Saison
I’ve been remiss in not trying this one yet, the flagship offering from our very own Lift Bridge Brewery in Stillwater (contract brewed by Flat Earth, I believe). For a Belgian saison, this one was very unique…at first blush I wasn’t sure if I’d mistakenly been served a tall glass of opaque orange juice, as it looked nothing like most other saisons I’ve had (or brewed myself). Tons of suspended yeast, almost like a hefeweizen. It smelled fantastic. Aggressively yeast-forward with a nice layering of cloves, light esters and a distinct horse blanket quality (did they use Brett?). Taste was bready and light, but not effervescent which I look forward to in this style. Carbonation a bit lacking, giving it a rather flat and watery mouthfeel. But overall, a pretty decent beer and one that I’d definitely try again. Look forward to some more offerings from these guys.

Rating: B+    

Eel River Triple Exultation
If Lift Bridge’s saison was my warm-up appetizer into the evening, tipping back a glass of Triple Exultation from Eel River in California was like skipping the main course and heading right for the dessert tray. Very nice amber coloring in the pour with only the slightest film of bubbles skimming the top of this Old Ale. A candy sweet aroma hits you right away, hinting at toffee, dark fruits and maybe even sherry. The taste was just like the nose, bordering on cloying in its malty, chewy sweetness. At nearly 10% ABV, it’s a hefty beer, and in combination with its nearly overpowering sugaryness, one that I was glad to share with a couple other friends at the table.  

Rating: B-     

Southern Tier Oak-Aged Cuvee Series Two
Mmm…now this is a nice beer. My love of all things casked has been long documented (most recently with my brewing of the port barrel-aged Belgian Brown Ale), so when I saw Southern Tier’s Oak-Aged Cuvee Series Two on the beer list, I had to order. Served in a snifter with a beautiful ruby red coloring and thin, khaki head. The nose was pure oaky goodness with a nice interplay of vanilla and dark fruits. Not sure where they get their casks, but they certainly could have been bourbon barrels. Taste was fantastic, with more of the oaked flavoring permeating throughout. Really reminded me in a big way of Allagash Curieux, minus the Belgian qualities. Mouthfeel and drinkability were great. And I didn’t even mind the slight heat from the 11% ABV that started creeping up on the back of my throat with each small sip. I have a bottle of this in my beer cellar, and I’m very excited to try this in another year or two.

Rating: A  

dsc015931Birthdays and anniversaries are two occasions you need to pay special attention to. Not that I’ve ever forgotten my wife’s birthday (april 23…april 23…april 23) or anything stupid like that. But you generally need to put forth a little more effort than usual to acknowledge these types of milestones.

Which is why when I got home from work Wednesday evening, generally fatigued, and a little brain-dead from a long day of PR meetings, I knew what had to be done…for tonight was the anniversary release of Surly Three. I wouldn’t entertain any excuses from myself about “how early I had to get up the next day” or “how much my liver still hurt” from the weekend. Forget it. I was going to the Surly party, and there wasn’t anything I was going to do to change it.

After picking up one of my more reliable tippling buddies, we walked into the Blue Nile in Minneapolis a little after 8 p.m. and found throngs of Surly faithful taking up every last square foot of available space. Great to see alot of happy faces enjoying alot of quality beer. We elbowed our way to the bar, and ordered ourselves a couple glasses of Three.

I actually had no idea what kind of beer Three was before I got to the place, and after slowly enjoying my first glass, I was still having a hard time placing it. After chatting with some folks, I came to realize Three is a braggot, half mead and half ale, a style I’d never had before. Poured with minimal head, dark brown coloring with a nice malty sweet aroma. Not much in the way of hops, but fairly yeast-forward which immediately brought Belgian to mind. Also a hint of spice in the nose, possibly even cinnamon. Taste was also sweet and very complex, definitely honey and dark fruits in there. At 10% ABV, it’s an extraordinarily well-balanced ass-kicker. Very nicely done Surly. 

Rating: A

I felt a little like we crashed the study party when a handful of us walked into Acadia Cafe on the West Bank of the U of M campus last night for our inaugural First Tuesday Beer Club meeting. Undergrads seated around pub tables with open books spread about, quiet conversations about the day’s lecture. A relaxed and scholarly environment mixed with the faint smell of hops and quality craft beer.

Calling our rendezvous a “meeting” might be a little formal. The small group was really a spin-off from a larger wine tasting circle, consisting of seven guys who realized that they all maybe enjoyed drinking and talking about beer slightly more than they do wine (maybe I’m just speaking for myself). After our last wine event, we decided to meet up at Acadia to test drive a few of their offerings, informally calling our gathering the First Tuesday Beer Club. But unlike the more rigid and structured wine events where scoring and extensive tabulations took place, we were just going to drink good quality craft beer and nod our heads in approval when we liked something. Maybe a few grunts mixed in for good measure.

We started the night with Surly Mild. I’d actually never seen this one on tap before, and was very eager to give it a shot. The menu described it as an English-style dark mild ale that resembled a malty version of iced tea. And that really wasn’t too far off. Given it was Surly, I was very surprised at just how little was really going on with this one. Barely noticeable aroma (save for the small hint of toffee), relatively nondescript taste, and thin mouthfeel. What immediately came to mind after taking a few sips of Mild was “session beer.” At 4.2% ABV, there’s no way anyone was going to have four or five or twelve of these and be in any danger of stumbling home. While this is probably a good stylistic example of a lighter English-style ale, it’s definitely the least favorite Surly offering I’ve had (Rating: C+).

The rest of the night went something like this:

Southern Tier Gemini Double IPA (far and away the crowd favorite – Rating: A-)
Rogue Yellow Snow IPA (so-so, pretty drinkable but compared to Gemini a little lower on the IPA scale – Rating: B)
Anchor Bock (very good…I’m not a big lager guy so I was pleasantly surprised – Rating: B+)
North Coast Old Rasputin (I’d had this in the bottle before, and was even more impressed with it on draught – Rating: A)
Saison Dupont Organic Farmhouse Ale (ick…something medicinal and uninviting about this one – Rating: C+)
Bell’s Sparkling Tripel 2007 (solid example of a Belgian tripel…yeasty up front with a nice, sweet finish – Rating: B+)
Bell’s Cherry Stout (enjoyable, nice way to cap off the night – Rating: B)

We each had our share, and ponied up the $8 per guy to settle the tab (seriously…I think they must have forgotten to put a couple pitchers on the bill). Next stop on the First Tuesday beer tour…The Muddy Pig. See everyone there.

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