Rating: A Minus


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Alright, better late than never. Summit’s new Unchained Series has been on the shelves for about two weeks now, and I was just today able to pick some up after striking out at a few of my usual beer haunts…I’m guessing a testament to the palpable buzz that preceded it in the local Twin Cities beer community.

As many already know, this is Summit’s first beer out of the gates for their new series, an attempt to give their brewers complete freedom in selecting a style they’d like to bring out to the market. For more background, Heavy Table recently provided a nice overview, as well as a solid review from fellow beer blogger Stu at Friday Night Beer.

Overall, I think a pretty cool move for the brewery, even despite some of the negative banter coming from some folks that a kolsch was a fairly underwhelming choice, of course assuming the goal was to “show the hop heads what we’re made of” and distance the staid brewery from its relatively stable portfolio of rather traditional English- and German-style beers like the EPA or Maibock. But I don’t think that’s what they’re really up to.

While I admit I had a couple nagging doubts of my own, I know from my own home brewing experience, at least, that it’s certainly alot easier to pull off a massively overhopped double IPA than it is to brew a delicate and balanced German-style ale like this. There’s much to be appreciated in masterful subtlety, and for the naysayers that wanted to see something a little more extreme, I’d say Summit (at least with the kolsch) has successfully innovated within the sandbox they’ve built for themselves over the last 25 years. They’re never going to be a Surly, it’s not in their nature. On the flipside of that coin, it’s not in Surly’s DNA to do a traditional kolsch. So in the end, I’d say I’m pretty impressed with what Summit has gone with for the first offering in the series.

Kolsch is an interesting style, because you get a little of both the ale and lager worlds in one. A little fruity, yet very crisp with a well-attenuated mouthfeel. I brewed my own version recently, which I think turned out well aside from the lack of clarity (a common issue with some homebrews). Compared to Summit’s version, however, it’s pedestrian at best.  

The beer poured very clean with a great billowing head and pils-like clarity. A nice hybrid quality in the nose…you get a very subtle hint of fruity esters from the top fermenting yeast, maybe tart apple, but it’s quickly overtaken by a sulfuric quality more commonly experienced in crisp lagers along with some very light Hallertau hops. The taste was also pleasing. Soft, rounded graininess presumably from the pilsner and Kolsch malts used in the grain bill, leading to a whisper of bitterness in the finish. It’s only 4.7% ABV, so clearly a session beer if the mood struck.   

Paired extraordinarily well with a fantastic green chile and sweet corn macaroni and cheese dish I whipped up, inspired by a recipe which I grabbed from Twin Cities food blog A Good Appetite. The green chile played surprisingly well with the kolsch, accentuated by the beer’s prickly crispness. Thanks for the great recipe, guys.

Having never been to Cologne, my knowledge of Kolsch-style ales is relatively limited. But this certainly appears to be a faithful representation of what you might get sitting down at a German kaffe or biergarten. Very pleasant.

Rating: A-

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Downtown St. Paul is a quaint little area, a mix of the historic and new. Modern business towers mingle with 1930′s gangster-era theaters. Cobblestone streets lead to corporate coffee shops dotting several street corners. And the tattered remnants of Lowertown warehouses from yesteryear overlook sparkling condominiums on the Mississippi riverfront.

If you’re not careful, you might actually fool yourself into thinking you’re in a thriving city filled with adventure and things to do. But when 5:01 p.m. hits on any given weekday, that thought quickly evaporates as the place becomes a virtual ghost town. Throngs of white starched shirts and pressed business suits filter out of corporate monoliths to make their way to the burbs. Homeless people roll through Rice Park like tumbleweed. And bartenders at watering holes quietly work their way through the day’s Pioneer Press crossword puzzle, waiting for someone…anyone…to give them something to do.    

The scene at Great Waters Brewery on St. Peter Street was thankfully a little more lively than that when I showed up Wednesday evening, but not by much. It’s been a while since I’ve been there, and was glad to see a slew of interesting beers on draught. I sampled a few, all of which were mighty tasty:

Cask Rye Pale Ale Dry Hopped with Chinook
Of the eight or 10 beers on tap, about half were cask-conditioned, which I think is great not only for the beer geeks interested in supporting real ale, but also a fun way for your everyday beer drinker to learn more about the difference in unfiltered and unpasteurized ale pushed naturally from the cask. Their Rye Pale Ale dry hopped with Chinook was a great example, poured surprisingly clear with a nice medium amber hue and beautiful combo of the bready rye and pungent aromatic hops in the nose. Taste was not as malty as I expected, but rather a bit dry leading to a spicy finish thanks to the rye. A very enjoyable beer.

Rating: A-

KaizerWeizen Hefeweizen
Poured golden cloudy with yeast like a good hefe should. Really no head to speak of, but that’s likely more a function that it was served in one of their half-pint glasses. Faint banana and bubble gum aroma, leading to a fairly non-descript flavor of light grain. Fairly spritzy mouthfeel. While this was a very clean, obviously well-constructed beer, it only reinforced my general disdain for hefeweizens as a relatively mundane style (unless you’re talking about Weihenstephaner, in which case pour me another!).

Rating: B

Cask Oak-Aged Black Watch Oatmeal Stout
Another cask-conditioned ale in the form of an oatmeal stout. Very deep brown pour, with a really subtle oakiness in the aroma. And in fact, too subtle in my opinion. The bartender told me they age it in oak casks for about a month, which to me doesn’t sound like enough to really impart that unique barrel characteristic. Some nice chocolate and roasted notes in the nose as well. Taste was smooth, almost velvety from the oatmeal. But compared to other stouts, I’d say a bit light in the mouthfeel department. A solid beer overall.

Rating: B

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Combine one part tomato basil pizza, one part Mediterranean pizza, and one part surprisingly delicious stout from Sri Lanka (yes, I said Sri Lanka), and what do you get? An absolutely fantastic and simple meal, my friends.

I love dishes that require extremely little prep, and come out tasting like you slaved over them for hours. These simple pizza recipes I went with Monday night for dinner fit that bill perfectly. Not that it was complicated to begin with, but I basically just made it up as I went along. OK, fine…if you want to quibble, it wasn’t exactly “homemade,” as I’d originally planned on making my own dough, but to save a bit of time I used the pre-formed pizza crusts from Boboli (thin). They work just fine in a pinch. For both pizzas, I brushed both sides of the crust with a mixture of olive oil and two cloves minced garlic before I added all the toppings, and cooked the pizzas at 450 degrees for about 10 minutes in the oven. Here’s the rest of the ingredients:

Tomato Basil Pizza (like I need to explain it)

  • 1/2 cup tomato sauce
  • 7 oz. diced sun-dried tomato
  • 1 oz. shredded mozzarella
  • 4 tbsp chopped basil (you can add another ounce or two after the pizza is done for a more robust basil aroma)

Mediterranean Pizza

  • 1/3 cup pesto sauce (spread as the base…and don’t use  the crap in the big spaghetti sauce jar, look for the real deal)
  • 7 oz. diced sun-dried tomato
  • 1/4 cup chopped artichoke hearts
  • 1/4 cup kalamata pitted olives
  • 1/4 cup feta
  • 1 oz. shredded mozarella
  • 4 tbsp spinach leaves

Both pizzas came out crisp and delicious, and went very well with Lion Stout (the Mediterranean pizza in particular thanks to the contrast with the feta).

Now what about this Lion Stout? I had heard of this mysterious beer from Sri Lanka recently from a couple friends, and when I stopped in to The Four Firkins the other day to see what was new on the shelves, Alvey offered up a small sample. I was immediately floored. And shocked it came from a part of the world one doesn’t normally associate with beer, let alone a rich, coffee-like stout! Brewed by The Lion Brewery Ceylon, I was surprised to also learn, according to the company’s under construction website, that these guys apparently also brew Carlsberg (I thought Carlsberg brewed Carlsberg, so I’m assuming it’s some kind of contract brewing situation for that region).

Poured from a can (another cool feature) with a big chocolatey head in a hurricane glass. Great dark brown appearance, with a pleasing roasted malt aroma, some molasses and coffee mixed in there. A great light chocolate flavor, with a slight bitterness and perceptible alcohol characteristic in the finish (it’s about 8% ABV).

Really surprised and impressed with this one. Go out and find it, you won’t be disappointed.

Rating: A-

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[previously...]

Saturday afternoon rolled around, and the sweet smell of booze, malt and hops poured out of our pale and yellowed skin as the three of us sat cooking like fried eggs on the aluminum outfield benches of the brand new Yankee Stadium.

I choked back the occasional involuntary puke belch, my stomach churning like a laundromat washing machine. The Vice Blogger repeatedly wiped flop sweat from his brow, squinting in the piercing sunlight to catch a glimpse or two of the game when his jackhammer of a headache would allow. And my brother-in-law spent nearly two full innings on a zombie-like expedition to find a cold bottle of water…anything to relieve the dehydration-induced misery we were all feeling after a hard day and night of serious craft beer appreciation.

This was no place or time to drink good craft beer. It was the furthest thing from our minds. This wasn’t even a place for a bit of macro hair of the dog. No, we were detoxing, and hard.

A chorus of cat calls erupted from around us, depending on the flow of the game. Nomar Garciaparra stood in the batter’s box, five years out of a Red Sox uniform yet still drawing the heated ire of diehard Yankees fans surrounding us. Compared to the Metrodome, where the worst thing you may hear coming from the mouths of Twins fans was some type of Lutheranized insult (“I tell ya, what an ooooverpaid jerk he is”), these Bleacher Creatures weren’t messing around. I was amazed at their continued need to have a one-way, lengthy conversation with players that clearly couldn’t hear them, and if they could, wouldn’t care. 

DSC02578“Sid dawn ya fuckin’ bum! Oh yeah? Well why don’t youse suck on deez!”

“Whaddya think dis is? Triple A ball?!! Do your fuckin’ job you freagin’ pile of…”

And this from the old women and children.

The Oakland A’s were easily handling the Yankees, so we cut our torture short in the seventh and caught a cab out of the Bronx and over to Harlem, home of Dinosaur BBQ. Most people that know me also know how much I love good BBQ. I used to work at a BBQ joint for several years in college, have been learning to use a smoker this summer, and am always the guy who loves taking over a grill, even when it isn’t my house or party. Now, one normally doesn’t think “New York City…good BBQ”, but after seeing this place on some Food Network television show a couple years ago, I made a mental note to visit the establishment the next time I was in town. I was excited to check it out.

DSC02586For those familiar, Dinosaur is somewhat reminiscent to Famous Dave’s, Minnesota’s answer to pulled pork and smoked brisket, minus the faux antique wall ornaments and servers in goofy pit crew uniforms. The greatest feature, of course, was the impressive draught list at the bar, something most BBQ juke joints fall down on. Allagash, Troegs, Stone, Dogfish Head, Brooklyn Brewery, and Ommegang, just to name a few.

I perused my options, and quickly settled on a Smuttynose IPA, a small brewery out of New Hampshire named after a small island off the state’s coast. The brewery distributes as far west as Wisconsin, yet I’ve never seen it on my various road trips out to Hudson. The IPA poured with a great building head filled with pine and intense citrus hop aromas. I could already tell this was going to be a winner. The taste was extremely unique, about as bitter of an IPA as I’ve ever had. The interesting part was how the hop bite slowly strengthened, similar to the growing heat of a habanero pepper, dancing off the taste buds long after the beer had gone down. I was very impressed, an A- kind of beer.  

DSC02582The beer also went very well with the heaping plate of both regular and garlic chipotle pepper sauce hot wings we ordered as an appetizer. These weren’t your average, puny wings…they were nearly full-size wings (and legs) with a quarter pound of good meat hanging off each of them. And the sauces they were smothered in were nothing short of amazing. Embarrassingly, we ate so many of the wings that by the time we got to the bottom of the plate, all three of us were stuffed to the gills, with no room left for a main course. So having been to Dinosaur, I still have not tried any of their other more popular regular offerings. Next time. 

After a much needed afternoon nap to digest the BBQ and sleep off the last bit of hangover, we saddled up and made our way down to Greenwich Village and The Blind Tiger Ale House, one of NYC’s finest craft beer bars. Compared to Rattle n’ Hum and The Ginger Man, which were both relatively spacious by New York standards, The Blind Tiger specializes in cozy. The place was wall-to-wall craft beer lovers when we walked in, with only one empty seat available at the bar. We quickly grabbed it, and within a few minutes the folks around us took off, making room for our small group.

Blind Tiger’s draught and bottle list was fantastic. Nearly three dozen different taps, and tons of vintage stuff like Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout 2007 (on draught!), several J.W. Lees Harvest Ales from years gone by, Thomas Hardy 2004, Scaldis Noel 2007, and many others. They also serve up a handful of ever-changing casks, which if you sit there even for a modest length of time will change before your very eyes…everyone in the bar pauses when the bartender climbs up the step stool to erase the old offering from the chalk board and etch in the new one, like gamblers watching an oddsmaker at the sports book in Vegas. And as if fantastic beer weren’t enough, the bar also partners with a fine cheese shop down Bleecker Street to offer a number of pairings, something we didn’t get to try this trip but something I’ll definitely make a point to do next time around. 

We started in with Aventinus Doppelbock on draught, something I’ve had before in the bottle, and was as equally impressed by its presentation from the tap. It’s about the smoothest, easiest 8% ABV wheat beer you’ll find anywhere. We also tried River Horse Hop-a-Lot-Amus Double IPA, one of the cask offerings available. A nice beer, expectedly ultra-hopped, and unique in the sense that it was a “real ale”, unfiltered and unpasteurized, which lent its own set of taste, aromatic, and mouthfeel nuances.

The crescendo of the evening was popping a bottle of Brooklyn Black Ops, which in addition to being a bourbon-barrel-aged imperial stout adventure in a bottle, may be one of the most difficult beer bottles in the history of beer geekdom to photograph. Not as much of the bourbon notes as I expected with this, which differed in opinion slightly from my drinking cohorts, but I did get a nice nose of chocolate, coffee and a tiny bit of banana. They apparently use champagne yeast to bottle condition, but it didn’t emit the kind of frothing head you might imagine. Taste was that of roasted malts, espresso coffee, and a bit of vanilla from the bourbon barrel. Mouthfeel a little thin compared to others in its category, but overall a very fine beer, likely an A-. And a very nice way to end what was a great trip to a city that should certainly be counted as one of the great beer destinations in the country, if you know where to look of course. 

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You could say cider and I haven’t really been the best of friends.

My first exposure to strong cider was in Ireland when, amidst many pints of Guinness at a small pub in Galway, I was challenged to a drinking competition by a local who thought a kid from Minnesota couldn’t outdrink a seafaring Irishman in a test of chugging ability. Well, he was right, as I proceeded to quickly down an entire glass of hard cider (I’ve suppressed which brand) in less than five seconds, narrowly being beaten by my nearly incomprehensible competitor (real Irish accents are tough enough to discern, let alone after a dozen drinks). I then proceeded to stumble to the back of the pub in search of the restroom so I could discretely get sick, only to discover that the door marked “Lads” actually opened up to the alley behind the establishment where several other drinking compatriots were relieving themselves on a stone wall. Classy.

Fast forward about 10 years. My palate has improved, while my tolerance has not. So I thought it was time to give this category another go to see what the world of strong cider, at least locally in the Twin Cities, had to offer. If it was good enough in 14th century Ireland to baptize babies in (weird, but true), then I guess it deserves another look.

Crispin Natural Hard Apple Cider
Crispin is a local company, in the sense that they’re headquartered here in Minneapolis. They don’t use Minnesota apples, but rather produce their cider out in northern California. According to the company, they take the high road compared to competitors by refusing to use any malt, spirits, grape alcohols or additives like sugar or colorants. Just pure, wholesome apple juice blends. They naturally ferment with classic red wine yeasts to give it its unique flavor. And wine is a pretty apt descriptor, as it reminded me much more of a fine white wine than what I’d assumed would be a cloying, sappy cider. Crispin comes in three varietals, the original, brut and a light version. I went with the original for this taste test.

Poured with a very quickly dissipating head, almost like champagne. Light golden coloring, reminiscent of a very light lager. Beautiful bouquet of apple, pear and other delicate fruit in the nose. I found it interesting that the aroma actually reminded me of a mellow apple flavored Jolley Rancher candy. Not a knock, just what I associated it with. The taste is unique, a nice tang up front with soft apple that gently fades into a smooth finish. Not overly tart or aggressive in the least. I did notice a slightly perceptible bit of alcohol in the finish.Comes in at just 5% ABV, so you could certainly sit down with a few of these on a warm summer evening. I enjoyed this one, and look forward to trying their other two offerings.

Rating: A- 

Magners Irish Cider
This is Great Britian’s number one selling hard cider. Made in County Tipperary, Ireland, the company uses 17 different apple varieties to make their unique blend, and are in fact one of the largest purchasers of apple crops in the country (both Republic and Northern Ireland).

Poured a comparatively darker color than Crispin, more like a ruddy orange. As a beer guy, the aroma of Magners was surprisingly more pleasing to my sensibilities, having a very woody, almost hop-like character. Definitely not as much of the overt apple smell. Taste was relatively sweet, not as delicate as Crispin. More of the earthy, woody character as well. I notice the ingredient listing on the side of the bottle rattles off sugar, malic acid, preservatives and added coloring. Hmm, I guess Crispin wasn’t kidding. Magners is 6% ABV, which wasn’t very noticeable. Not bad overall, reminded me more of a beer in some ways. A very different cider than the first one in the line-up.

Rating: B-

Original Sin Hard Cider
This one comes out of New York, although it appears to be contract brewed down in Florida by Indian River Brewing. They use Granny Smith apples and champagne yeast, which is very evident in the pour. Very light and effervescent, with a watered down lemonade coloring. They also claim no additives, and I’d buy that as the apple aroma comes off much better than Magners. I can definitely tell they use Granny Smith, as you get some of that biting ester in the nose. The taste is surprisingly not that bitter, but what is there tends to linger throughout the finish. Another one that comes in at 6% ABV.

Rating: B+

White Winter Hard Apple Cider
Brewed up in the Bayfield Peninsula of Wisconsin, White Winter  is apparently more of a winery and mead maker. Poured very light, just the slightest tinge of straw coloring. A bit of that woodiness in the aroma mixed with apple, but not as evident as Magners. I was a little disappointed with the taste, as there really didn’t seem to be much to it. Fairly watery, not much apple, but you do get a definite bite in the finish. They use a touch of honey to brew this cider, and you can tell in the distinctly dry quality throughout. Only 4.5% ABV, so the lightest of the bunch.

Rating: B-

DSC02243The Yeti returns…

I had the fortune of trying the original version of Great Divide’s Yeti Imperial Stout several months ago on draught at The Happy Gnome. A lovely beer. Shortly thereafter, I stumbled upon a bottle of the Espresso Oak-Aged version at Four Firkins, and frankly forgot about it for a few months as it hid in the back of my beer shelf. During a backyard bonfire party, my brother-in-law resurrected it, and I’m glad he did, because it’s one of the better stouts I’ve had in quite some time.

Thick pour into a snifter, big bursting head. Great coffee aroma, like you just walked into a bustling cafe. The oak was very subtle, not too aggressive or overpowering which is what can sometimes happen with these types of beers, like the brewer is trying to make a statement.

The coffee bitterness in the taste is nicely balanced by the deep malt and sweet vanilla oakiness. Some dark fruit lingering in the background. Very thick mouthfeel. There’s a lot going on here, but I think it works well. Highly complex, but understated.

A great sipper by the fire.

Rating: A-

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Some of the best beer in the world is brewed in the most unassuming of locations. Barley John’s in New Brighton certainly fits that bill. Tucked near the corner of County Road D and Old Highway 8, Barley John’s may not be as prolific in offerings as other legendary brewpubs like Minneapolis Town Hall. But they make up for it in quality.

When I was there over the weekend, I was informed that the brewhouse was under construction, meaning most of their beers weren’t available. A little disappointing, but manageable given the knowledge that they’re planning to double their capacity by adding two new fermentors. Of the handful of beers that were on draught, the two that I tried were more than excellent.

DSC02200Wild Brunette (Wild Rice Brown Ale)
What a uniquely delicious beer, and a perfect way to blend a very Minnesotan ingredient, wild rice, with a pleasing brown ale.

A bit of reddish wild rice residue in the small head ringing the glass. Definite wild rice in the aroma, which one might think would be odd, but it seemed very appropriate with a nice bouquet of earthy almond and vanilla coupled.

Taste was a mix of nuttiness and sweet malt, with some of the rice also coming through. Relatively strong for a brown ale, about 7.5%.

Rating: A-  

DSC02206Dark Knight
Oh, the Dark Knight. I’ve been waiting to try this one for quite a while, as it only makes an appearance very occasionally. For some reason I was under the impression it was their imperial stout, but turns out it’s actually a double fermented, barrel aged baltic porter that comes in at a whopping 13.5%. According to the brewery, they age the beer more than eight months in 15 and 20 year bourbon casks from Old Fitzgerald Distillery. And let me tell you…this beer is no joke.

Not much of the roasted, smokey quality like I expected, given it’s a baltic porter. But it literally smelled like a straight shot of bourbon, incredibly potent up front. One of the most aggressive beers I’ve ever smelled. Taste was complex as could be…lots of dark fruits, almost port-like in its intensity. More of the bourbon in the flavor as well. Big alcohol burn in the finish, but it didn’t turn me off. I had about half of my small snifter, maybe 3 or 4 ounces, and felt completely satisfied with it. Any more and I might have needed a ride home. This could be one of the best ass-kicker style of beers I’ve ever had, top five for sure.

Rating: A+ 

In addition to enjoying a couple incredibly nice beers, I also really enjoyed hanging out on Barley John’s patio flanked by rows of thriving hop plants. A very nice touch.

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I’ve had a few offerings from Brooklyn Brewery before, mainly through my brief work trips out to The Big Apple. Their East India Pale Ale? Yeah, serviceable. Pennant Ale ’55? A pretty average pale ale, but OK. At least I got a decent story out of procuring it. But when my buddy Aaron over at the Vice Blog sent me a nice trade package a while back, I knew I was in for a treat when I opened the box and discovered a bomber of Local 2 staring back at me. 

I have a lot of respect for Garrett Oliver, head brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery. He seems to approach craft beer not solely from the magnified perspective of “this is a great craft beer and I’m going to tell you why,” but rather from the broader holistic sense of how the beer contributes to the experience of food enjoyment, mirth and life. It’s a great way to think about craft beer, in my opinion, and prevents one from getting too siloed with what can sometimes become a harlequin romance novel of bathetically poetic beer description and granular conversation that may turn off some non-craft drinkers to the whole phenomenon. Granted, I’m as guilty as the rest of them, particularly through this blog. But I’d generally like to think my enjoyment and advocacy for craft beer, whether that includes hanging out with friends and family on the patio during a summer evening or at the local brewpub, is more about connecting, learning, and appreciating the company of those around me versus beating someone over the head with knowledge of malt characteristics. Regardless of whether or not this is an accurate interpretation of Garrett’s beer philosophy, one thing is certain — the guy knows how to brew a damn good beer.

Local 2 kicked off with a resounding pop of the cork exploding from the bomber. Quite a gusher. Once I cleaned up the unfortunate spillage on the kitchen floor, Local 2 poured with a nice chocolatey brown coloring and big fizzy head. Hazy appearance from the abundance of yeast. Big Belgian nose with its yeast and candi sugar notes, almost dubbel-ish in the way it sang dark fruits. Taste is sweet up front, migrating to a dry fruitiness in the finish, I’m sure partially due to the honey used in the brewing process. Also a tad bit too boozey for me, which is the only real drawback in my mind. But overall a very nice, lively beer. 

 Rating: A-

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DSC02141Maple syrup. It’s not just for pancakes any more.

Stopped in to The Muddy Pig in St. Paul after work for the long awaited Founders release party. For those of us in the Twin Cities who make the occasional trip out to Wisconsin to pick up various renowned beers like Dogfish Head, Stone, New Glarus, and of course Founders, I’m very glad I can now save on the gas money and find their stuff at my local bar or liquor store. Wish I could say the same for the rest.

So imagine my surprise sitting down tonight at the pub to check out which Founders offerings were available, and seeing not their legendary Kentucky Breakfast Stout, which is what I assumed would be there, but their even more limited Canadian Breakfast Stout, an imperial stout aged in Kentucky whiskey barrels that were also used by a small maple syrup maker. And to add a bit of flair to the presentation and play off the whole maple syrup/breakfast stout theme, each glass of the stuff was served with a heaping pile of Bacon Explosion, what might be the most cholesterol-packed portion of food I’ve ever experienced. After I had a few bites and used the EKG machine to ensure my heart was in proper working order, I put on my review cap and did my best to discern what this Canadian Breakfast Stout was all about. They only had a small 5 gallon cask of the stuff, and were rationing it out in tiny 4 ounce sample glasses, but I was able to get a pretty solid sense of it.          

Massive oak and whisky aroma with hints of Sumatra and Kona coffee beans. Sweet, molasses, chewy caramel. Might be one of the boldest smelling beers I’ve ever experienced. Maple undertones as well, but it was tough to discern over the evident alcohol characteristic. Jet black coloring with trails of tan bubbles making up the nearly non-existent head.

Taste was huge, like the nose. So complex, so much going on. Very tough to single it all out. Thick roasted malt, bourbon, coffee, maple syrup, more bourbon, maybe some vanilla and oak. Your tastebuds are completely enveloped. I kept thinking about Goose Island Bourbon County Stout as I drank this, which has much more of a tobacco-like quality to it, but Founders CBS might trump that beer as even more insanely rich and immensely complex. 9.5% ABV, which you definitely taste in the finish. 

I gotta be honest. This beer gets huge marks on Beer Advocate as an A+ kind of beer. I’m guessing mainly because of its extremely limited availability (maybe a bit like Westy?), and of course its extreme nature as an imperial stout to end all imperial stouts. But as much as this was a unique and enjoyable beer, it doesn’t really compare in my book to other A+ kind of imperial stouts I’ve had like Darkness or Dark Lord. Just not the same kind of inately satisfying depth and chocolatey warmth the others deliver. One small glass was about all I could handle. I wasn’t interested in any more.

Unfortunately it’s only a superb beer, not world-class.

Rating: A-

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DSC02099Now this is a nice beer.

On the label, they call MaiFest from August Schell Brewing down in tiny New Ulm, Minn. a blonde double bock. But in my opinion that just means maibock. And what a well done beer to not only celebrate Day 3 of American Craft Beer Week, but also marvel at what is turning out to be a rout in Game 7 of the Pittsburgh/Washington NHL series. The pundits kind of built this one up to be a dramatic finish to what’s been one of the best playoff series in recent memory. But it’s not that exhilirating, unless you like watching poor goaltending and sluggish defense.

MaiFest has a very nice, light bready malt aroma and clean Noble hop notes with a little bit of spiciness — I’m guessing Tettnanger or Saaz. Pleasantly inviting. Medium gold appearance with a two finger white head that quickly trickles off after the initial pour.

Very smooth taste. More of the bready malt up front, a bit of the hop bitterness in the middle, and some alcohol heat in the finish. Exceptionally nice mouthfeel, almost creamy. Nearly 7% ABV, so you certainly feel it after one.    

For as much as I go on and on about incredibly complex Belgian ales or black hole-style imperial stouts, it’s sometimes nice to sit down with a well crafted beer that is unassuming and straightforward in its masterful simplicity. What you see is what you get. 

This could possibly be one of the best maibocks I’ve had so far this spring.

Rating: A-

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