I think this is highly unfortunate, but from various discussions with other craft beer lovers, it seems that August Schell gets knocked around as being your average “macro” brewer, using various adjuncts to make up parts of their grain bills. I think this is in fact true, but not for all (or even most) of their beers (their kolsch, as an example, as well as the beer you’re about to read about). Potentially fueling this negative perception may also be their stylistic approach, as some equate their stable of beers — most of which are more traditional German-style lagers — as somewhat of a letdown in today’s world of off-the-wall, superhopped, bourbon barrel-aged madness. If it wasn’t brewed by a monk, or didn’t come straight out of a tiny brewery in San Diego offering limited release triple IPAs, what’s the point, right?
What I do know is Schells currently ranks as the 25th largest brewery in the country based on 2008 sales volume, just behind a few notables like Bell’s, Goose Island and Anchor. When I look for Schells, I usually pick up one of their sampler packs to get a bit of variety, and truth be told, not all of their stuff has blown me away. But really, what brewer always does?
Adjuncts or not, as a privately held family-run operation for nearly 150 years putting out what in my opinion is very solid stuff (like their MaiFest I really enjoyed earlier this spring or their very tasty Stout), I think Schells deserves a serious look as one of the best regional breweries in the country.
FireBrick is one of those Schells offerings that I see most of the year, and ignorantly take for granted. You don’t find a great number of Vienna Lagers around, unless of course you count the ubiquitous Sam Adams Boston Lager (which I have somewhat of a hard time classifying in this category given its overtly hoppy nose), or maybe even Dos Equis and Negra Modelo (the style has flourished in Mexico since the late 1800′s thanks to Austrian brewer immigrants). But FireBrick is in a different ballpark altogether.
Apparently named after the red bricks that line Schell’s old boilers at the brewery (I need to get down to New Ulm for a tour at some point), the beer pours a very rich, amberish coloring with a two finger head that leaves a lingering lace on the glass. Nice Vienna and Munich maltiness in the aroma, bready and toasted with caramel notes coming through. A pleasing, sweet maltiness in the taste, with a medium mouthfeel. Not nearly as hopped up as Boston Lager, but you do get a slight bite in the finish from the Vanguard, Chinook and Hallertau they use. A very enjoyable and refreshing beer.
Rating: B+
August 6, 2009 at 9:42 am
I had this a few nights ago…just reviewed it.
My initial reaction was much like yours…this was an extreme flanders for me.
BUT the more I sipped the more I found it appealing, so much so that I was bummed when my glass was empty. If I drank this every night I do think it would lose it’s appeal.
The first Nate asked if you had a bad bottle…I doubt it. This beer is aged in 80 year old liquor casks. It would be impossible for it to not taste a bit spoiled.
August 6, 2009 at 9:55 am
Nate, are you talking about the Duchesse?
August 6, 2009 at 11:12 am
Overall, Schell’s beers are not at the top of my list, but really that’s due to the fact that most are German style and I simply prefer British style beers. That being said, I do enjoy both Firebrick and Schmaltz’s Alt (probably the latter more).
August 6, 2009 at 11:28 am
I’m with you Kris, definitely more of an ale guy. But Schells does have some pretty good stuff. Not sure I’ve tried the Alt.
August 6, 2009 at 12:18 pm
The alt is a seasonal beer for them and I think one of the hardest to find, or else there’s so many people that like it that it just flies off the shelves.
August 6, 2009 at 2:48 pm
I don’t know why they call that beer an Alt. I mean, name your beer whatever you want; but it’s confusing to folks when there is a definite Altbier style and it’s very different to what you’re selling. It’s a great beer, the name is just misleading.
As for Schell’s in general, they brew so many different beers that there are bound to be some that are average. I agree with Kris regarding the German style not being a top choice as well. Part of the issue lies in the emphasis of balance in German, and even British, beers. One person’s “balanced” beer is another’s “boring.” It’s actually very difficult to brew a perfectly balanced session beer, it’s much easier to brew a hop monster to hide the various other flaws in your beer. I find that sometimes when I drink a beer and nothing jumps out right away, I think the beer lacks character. Then when I try it again under different circumstances, I can appreciate some of the subtleties…then again, there are some beers that are just bog standard.
August 6, 2009 at 3:07 pm
FD – totally agree on the “balanced” and “boring” distinction. As a homebrewer, there are some styles (thinking of many in the German brewing tradition) that are just more difficult to pull off because, as you note, there really isn’t much to hide behind. A clean lager really can set apart “good” and “great” homebrewers who are striving to hone their technical skills and deliver a consistently clean beer time and again. I recently bottled a roggenbier, and while an ale, it turned out to be one of the more smooth and balanced beers I ever made, which in my mind was its defining characteristic even ahead of the rye. There can be great appreciation in subtlety, I think.
August 7, 2009 at 11:46 am
[...] from The Captain’s Chair mounts a defense of the oft-maligned August Schell brewery, endorsing its FireBrick Vienna-style lager as “a very enjoyable and refreshing beer.” [...]
August 7, 2009 at 12:56 pm
Just to set the record straight, the only beers we make that use adjuncts are American Lagers (Premium, Original, and both light beers). None of the craft beers use adjuncts.
Oh, and by the way, Schmaltz is called an Alt because Alt means old–as in a German Ale. As far as Altbier being a definite style-they’re actually all over the map, kind of like Kolsch. But I will agree it’s not like any Alt I’ve ever had.
August 7, 2009 at 1:08 pm
David – thanks for the info, that’s in line with what I thought to be the case.
August 7, 2009 at 3:04 pm
David- Any chance of you guys reviving Grain Belt Golden anytime soon?
August 18, 2009 at 3:57 pm
I love Schells craft line (well not the Dark). I always get a good creamy head, a nice bready malt backbone, and solid balanced flavors. The Pilsner is so overlooked its a crime. One of the best German styles I’ve had. When I say this, people cock their head and get a puzzled look on their face. Really? they say. Yeah. They’re not just making Deer Brand anymore people.
August 18, 2009 at 4:20 pm
Sean – couldn’t agree more (although I had the Dark recently and, despite my skepticism, it at least quenched my thirst).