Let’s just get this out of the way right up front. The Duchesse is the most wonderfully foul, rank, and abhorrent beer I’ve ever had. Just don’t ask me to try it again.
It’s a Flanders Red, which stylistically means you better get ready for a puckering experience worse than the last time you told your boss they looked good in that searsucker suit. Brewed with lactobacillus, these beers emit a piercing and intensely tart, sour characteristic. It’s essentially lactic acid in a bomber. Despite their attempts to blend younger and older versions of the beer to help balance some of this out, you’re still in for a shock.
Poured with an appealing reddish coloring, fairly clear, but with a bit of yeast sediment. Pretty big, yeasty head. Smelled like a dank bath rag that’s been sitting in the corner of your tub for a week. Spoiled and sour, a moldy rancidness. However, you have to understand, stylistically that’s not a knock because that’s exactly what they’re going for. But from a personal preference perspective? Meh. They age the beer in an oak-barrel for a year, but you don’t really get any of that in the nose. The sourness dominates. You do, however, pick up a somewhat perceptible aroma of anise.
Taste is very sweet right up front, some kind of darker fruit, maybe prunes. But it quickly fades into more of the biting sourness. In fact, the beer is intensely prickly. It climbed up the back of my throat and invaded my nasal membranes. I almost choked up a few times, it was all-encompassing. My eyes watered.
You’d think at this point that I’d put the snifter down and move on to another beer. But no, I don’t give up that easily. For this is the highest rated Flanders Red on Beer Advocate, and by god, I was going to savor it.
They call this beer “The Burgundies of Belgium” on the label, and I think it’s aptly named as this beer is probably more similar to wine than it is to your standard ale. Stylistically, I realize this is one of those benchmark beers, and that’s weighing heavily into my rating. I mean for chrissake, it won the Gold Medal at the World Beer Cup. But I only appreciated it from an R&D standpoint…it’s definitely not a beer (or style) I could drink even occasionally.
Rating: B

July 15, 2009 at 6:36 am
I wonder if you actually got a bad bottle? I mean, sure, it’s sour, it’s funky, but it’s not THAT sour or funky. Or maybe it’s different on tap? I think my only experience with Duchesse de Bourgogne has been at Town Hall where they’ve had it on tap in the past… In that case I found it to be not sour or funky *enough*!
July 15, 2009 at 9:04 am
This is one of my favorite beers, but yeah, not a beer I can drink very often.
July 15, 2009 at 9:12 am
I used to drink Rodenbach, until I tried the Duchesse. Now, I cook with Rodenbach. This beer can easily give you heartburn but it’s well worth it. As much as I love this beer, it’s tough to get through a 750 by yourself, even more difficult than a Cantillon geueze.
July 15, 2009 at 9:37 am
Heartburn is exactly what it gave me.
July 15, 2009 at 9:52 am
I’m with Nate. My only experience was at Town Hall as well and it wasn’t sour to me. And I agree with you, Captain. I’ll probably never buy it again, not up my alley.
July 15, 2009 at 10:31 am
I wonder if there’s a difference between bottle and tap, given the conditioning. Maybe on draught it loses some of the sour characteristic.
July 15, 2009 at 12:29 pm
I agree in wondering if you got a bad bottle. I love the Duchesse and while I usually drink it on tap at Town Hall I have purchased a bottle or two of it and have been just as pleased out of the bottle as out of the tap. Maybe more so since there’s at least 3 glasses in a bottle for the price of less than 2 at the bar.
July 15, 2009 at 1:06 pm
It’s possible, Kris. I may pick up another bottle to compare. Or try it at Town Hall if they have it on!
July 27, 2009 at 2:09 pm
There’s definitely a difference between the bottle and the tap. I’ve never had a bottle as bad as you describe, but it doesn’t really impress me. But fresh on tap – ah, the joy. I have a 20-liter keg of it on tap in my kitchen right now. Nectar of the gods.
August 19, 2009 at 5:31 pm
I’ve gone through 4+ bottles and had it on tap at 2+ locations. It’s never been sour. Of course, your preference may vary. I think you should re-test. Also try drinking it at a warmer room temperature.
August 19, 2009 at 7:34 pm
I plan to try it again. Also have Vichtenaar, which I’ve heard is a tad better.