You could say cider and I haven’t really been the best of friends.
My first exposure to strong cider was in Ireland when, amidst many pints of Guinness at a small pub in Galway, I was challenged to a drinking competition by a local who thought a kid from Minnesota couldn’t outdrink a seafaring Irishman in a test of chugging ability. Well, he was right, as I proceeded to quickly down an entire glass of hard cider (I’ve suppressed which brand) in less than five seconds, narrowly being beaten by my nearly incomprehensible competitor (real Irish accents are tough enough to discern, let alone after a dozen drinks). I then proceeded to stumble to the back of the pub in search of the restroom so I could discretely get sick, only to discover that the door marked “Lads” actually opened up to the alley behind the establishment where several other drinking compatriots were relieving themselves on a stone wall. Classy.
Fast forward about 10 years. My palate has improved, while my tolerance has not. So I thought it was time to give this category another go to see what the world of strong cider, at least locally in the Twin Cities, had to offer. If it was good enough in 14th century Ireland to baptize babies in (weird, but true), then I guess it deserves another look.
Crispin Natural Hard Apple Cider
Crispin is a local company, in the sense that they’re headquartered here in Minneapolis. They don’t use Minnesota apples, but rather produce their cider out in northern California. According to the company, they take the high road compared to competitors by refusing to use any malt, spirits, grape alcohols or additives like sugar or colorants. Just pure, wholesome apple juice blends. They naturally ferment with classic red wine yeasts to give it its unique flavor. And wine is a pretty apt descriptor, as it reminded me much more of a fine white wine than what I’d assumed would be a cloying, sappy cider. Crispin comes in three varietals, the original, brut and a light version. I went with the original for this taste test.
Poured with a very quickly dissipating head, almost like champagne. Light golden coloring, reminiscent of a very light lager. Beautiful bouquet of apple, pear and other delicate fruit in the nose. I found it interesting that the aroma actually reminded me of a mellow apple flavored Jolley Rancher candy. Not a knock, just what I associated it with. The taste is unique, a nice tang up front with soft apple that gently fades into a smooth finish. Not overly tart or aggressive in the least. I did notice a slightly perceptible bit of alcohol in the finish.Comes in at just 5% ABV, so you could certainly sit down with a few of these on a warm summer evening. I enjoyed this one, and look forward to trying their other two offerings.
Rating: A-
Magners Irish Cider
This is Great Britian’s number one selling hard cider. Made in County Tipperary, Ireland, the company uses 17 different apple varieties to make their unique blend, and are in fact one of the largest purchasers of apple crops in the country (both Republic and Northern Ireland).
Poured a comparatively darker color than Crispin, more like a ruddy orange. As a beer guy, the aroma of Magners was surprisingly more pleasing to my sensibilities, having a very woody, almost hop-like character. Definitely not as much of the overt apple smell. Taste was relatively sweet, not as delicate as Crispin. More of the earthy, woody character as well. I notice the ingredient listing on the side of the bottle rattles off sugar, malic acid, preservatives and added coloring. Hmm, I guess Crispin wasn’t kidding. Magners is 6% ABV, which wasn’t very noticeable. Not bad overall, reminded me more of a beer in some ways. A very different cider than the first one in the line-up.
Rating: B-
Original Sin Hard Cider
This one comes out of New York, although it appears to be contract brewed down in Florida by Indian River Brewing. They use Granny Smith apples and champagne yeast, which is very evident in the pour. Very light and effervescent, with a watered down lemonade coloring. They also claim no additives, and I’d buy that as the apple aroma comes off much better than Magners. I can definitely tell they use Granny Smith, as you get some of that biting ester in the nose. The taste is surprisingly not that bitter, but what is there tends to linger throughout the finish. Another one that comes in at 6% ABV.
Rating: B+
White Winter Hard Apple Cider
Brewed up in the Bayfield Peninsula of Wisconsin, White Winter is apparently more of a winery and mead maker. Poured very light, just the slightest tinge of straw coloring. A bit of that woodiness in the aroma mixed with apple, but not as evident as Magners. I was a little disappointed with the taste, as there really didn’t seem to be much to it. Fairly watery, not much apple, but you do get a definite bite in the finish. They use a touch of honey to brew this cider, and you can tell in the distinctly dry quality throughout. Only 4.5% ABV, so the lightest of the bunch.
Rating: B-

July 7, 2009 at 9:43 pm
I just finished a Crispin Natural. Nothing fancy. Not really a fan of their marketing snobbishness. The Heavy Table posted an interview with someone from Crispin, which knocked Woodchuck and Hardcore. If it’s a Minnesota company, use our apples.
I had my first Magners in Boston late last July at a meetup for PodCamp Boston 3. One of the best I’ve had. I like the sweet, malty finish.
I first had Original Sin at Stub & Herb’s during their recent Flying Dog event. Great cider, reminescent of the French Brut I had at Town Hall a few months ago.
Of the three I’ve had, Crispin was the worst.
Nice change of pace, reviewing ciders. Maybe we can meet up sometime and do a Beer Genome Project / Captain’s Chair duo review.
July 7, 2009 at 9:57 pm
I wondered the same thing about why Crispin doesn’t use MN apples. Seems to be Minnesotan in name only.
I won’t repeat myself, but Crispin and Original Sin seemed to meet more of my admittedly preconceived notions of what I’d expect from a cider. The Magners surprised me with the aroma, much more like a beer (actually reminded me of DFH 60 in a strange way). I wanted to like White Winter, but the taste just wasn’t there.
We should definitely meet up for a couple beers. You guys homebrew?
July 8, 2009 at 11:10 am
I first had Crispin at Indulge, the brut, and was very pleasantly surprised. Much more apple flavor and less sappy than other commercial ciders. I tried it for a second time at St. Paul Summer Beer Fest and still liked it just as well, however I didn’t enjoy the original and the light, was so light I thought, why bother?
Also at St. Paul Fest tried Original Sin for the first time. Again, better than other commercial ones but a second to Crispin in my opinion. Plus, cool artwork.
I haven’t had the other two although hope to be able to try the White Winter sometime as I’ve enjoyed the meads I’ve had from them.
July 8, 2009 at 11:15 am
Give Strongbow a try. Not particularly sweet, occasionally it can remind you of apple vinegar, but my favorite cider.
sean
July 8, 2009 at 12:28 pm
I had Samuel Smith’s version in London and it was pretty good. Other than Magner’s I couldn’t tell you what I thought, so I need to try a few more of these.
July 9, 2009 at 2:24 pm
You really should make your own cider, it’s incredibly easy. I use 6 gallons of flash pasteurized organic apple juice (unfiltered). You can buy it at Trader Joe’s for less than most other places. Then, add a pound of honey to amp up the fermentables, some yeast nutrient, and two packs of WY4766 (or any wine yeast will work too) and ferment away. I leave it in primary for about 3 weeks, then secondary for as long as you can stand (at least 6-8 weeks). To prime it, I just use a can of organic frozen apple juice concentrate.
After it’s carbonated, it’s drinkable. After it’s bottle aged 2-3 months, it starts developing some really complex flavors and funk like a saison. My last batch was around 11%, and the longer you leave it in secondary the less fusels you’ll have, so it’s really smooth and dry.
I generally prefer French ciders, but Sammy Smith’s Organic Cider and Crispin Brut are the best commercial versions readily available around here IMHO.
July 9, 2009 at 2:33 pm
Great info, thanks for the recipe! I may give this a shot at some point. Would be a fun experiment.
July 15, 2009 at 7:58 am
I’d try homebrewing with a good blend of apples, (i spent three seasons with good apples, but bad cider apples making a brew that needed to be mulled). The book Cider, by Annie Proulx and Lew Nichols has tonnes of information, but still easy to read, and not add anything but a cider yeast. Dry, champagne like, and if too dry, can add a splash of fresh cider when serve for those who want a “strongbow” like flavor. Any midwest commercial brewers? I’d like to try some local apples local brewers. Jason
July 21, 2009 at 11:44 pm
[...] No worries, my friends. I’m first and foremost a craft beer guy. But after tonight’s dinner hosted by Crispin Cider at The Happy Gnome, I may be making a bit more room for the cider category. [...]
October 29, 2009 at 10:26 am
[...] (either the story’s charm or its downfall), more insight into the Rustica move from Rick, a hard cider roundup from The Captain’s Chair, a nice blurb on Northeast gourmet olive oil / vinegar / pasta shop [...]
May 10, 2010 at 10:02 am
I realize this comment is quite late, but found your blog while searching for a Crispin The Saint clone recipe.
Must say that I second the recommendation above to homebrew a cider if you like them. So much better than most of what is available commercially.
I’d also recommend buying a bottle of Crispin Artisinal Reserve The Saint (red label). My husband is generally not a cider fan, but he couldn’t stop raving about this (which is why I’m looking for a clone recipe!)
When we were in Ireland, by far the most common cider at pubs was Bulmers, which is available in the US as Magners (though tastes slightly different).
May 10, 2010 at 10:12 am
Thanks Mary, I have a bottle of The Saint but haven’t tried it yet. I think it’s interesting they fermented with a Trappist yeast strain, curious how that comes through in the finished product.
May 11, 2010 at 12:08 pm
I’m jealous that you still have a bottle. I am going on a hunt for it this weekend since it’s not a common brand where I’m from.
I think the yeast might be why my husband loved it so much as he tends to favor Trappist beers. I’ll be curious to see what you think of it!